Gentle giants of Dasara

Mysuru, Mysuru Palace, Mysuru Dasara and Jamboo Savari are closely associated, and Dasara is unimaginable without the caparisoned elephants. Jamboo Savari, the traditional procession from Mysuru Palace up to Bannimantapa, is held on the Vijayadashami day. Besides, the elephants take part in other rituals associated with Dasara. When it is taken into consideration that this year’s Dasara is the 407th the annual Jamboo Savari, in continuation of the celebrations started by the Wadiyar kings of the Yadu dynasty, the festivities, events and the procession take the form of a carnival, with people’s involvement, a majority of them tourists.

Regal show

The Jamboo Savari is guided by traditions that are systematised over centuries. Originally the Vijayadashami procession by kings, Jamboo Savari  has a heritage of at least four centuries. It was basically meant to display the prosperity of the Wadiyar kings and accordingly, the wooden howdah got gold plating later. The elephants are decorated with ornaments and paintings on their body to further the grandeur.

Among the elephants, the howdah carrier is the main attraction. This year 57-year-old Arjuna is designated to carry the howdah for the sixth time after 2012. He will be flanked by two female elephants, called kumkis. A nishane elephant and a naufat elephant will pilot the howdah elephant with the insignia of the Wadiyar dynasty. Some more elephants follow the herd to add majesty to the procession. These beautifully decorated gentle giants are the pride and joy of the Nadahabba.

Jamboo Savari begins with the mounting of the howdah atop the elephant. Once the Chief Minister offers floral tributes to the idol of Chamundeshwari, installed on the howdah, the elephant starts moving from the Mysuru Palace, towards Bannimantapa. After covering a distance of four km up to Bannimantapa, the howdah is removed and brought back to the palace.

A total of 15 elephants from Dubare, Bandipur, Nagarahole, Thithimathi, K Gudi, Mathigodu and Balle camps are participating in this year’s Jamboo Savari. Several weeks of strict regimen and training are involved in preparing the elephants for the regal show. ‘Weight training’, getting them used to the cacophony of the city roads and rehearsal march to Bannimantapa are the key stages of the training.

The description of Dasara elephants is incomplete without the mention of mahouts and kavadis, their caretakers. As per the guidelines of the Forest Department, mahout is the caretaker of the elephant and kavadi is an assistant to the mahout. They are the ones who train the elephants while also ensuring the good health of these animals with support from Forest Department officials and veterinarians. The mahouts, kavadis and their families are seasonal visitors to Mysuru during Dasara and they are accommodated in humble makeshift shelters on the premises of Mysuru Palace. Hardships are not new to these people, most of whom live in colonies inside the forests. Being a mahout or a kavadi is not an easy job. Most of them have been trained since childhood by the elders in the family. 

Life of caretakers

Their relocation for a couple of months, in an entirely different environment, amidst people from varied cultural backgrounds is a different kind of a challenge. However, they cherish every happy moment, celebrate the success of the Jamboo Savari and develop a bonding with other families. When they pack up to return to their places, after the completion of Dasara festivities, they feel the pain of separation. They part with the hope that they can meet once again, at the next Dasara.

Akkamma, wife of Chinnappa, mahout of elephant Gopi, said, “If my husband keeps good health, he can take care of the elephant well. If the elephants behave well, the Jamboo Savari will be a success. So, I come along with him to take good care of him.”

“Our lifestyle changes here. By the time we get accustomed to this life, we have to leave. However, the members of the families of other mahouts and kavadis are always there to help us. All of us sail in the same boat,” she said. “My daughter takes care of the house in my absence. The officials have made provision for a tent school here. Still, children find it difficult to cope up with their studies,” said Jaya, wife of Dobi, mahout of elephant Kaveri.

Latha, wife of Thimma, the proud mahout of Dasara veteran Balarama, said, Mysuru is like her maternal home. She also helps Thimma in taking care of Balarama. She enjoys feeding Balarama. Thimma said, during Dasara, he gets busy, caring for and training the elephant. Balarama has carried the golden howdah 14 times. “Back home, agriculture on my lands will suffer. But, for me, Dasara is the first priority,” he said.

Ganesh, a ninth standard student, says he likes coming down to Mysuru from his home in Thithimathi as he gets to play football here. Nandini, a seventh standard student, says she has been coming to Mysuru every year since her birth, with her family. “I am interested in dance. I come here to learn dance in the tent school. Another luxury here is having the school at my doorstep. Back home, I have to walk over three km and cross a stream to reach the school,” she said.

The efforts of the caretakers and their families got due recognition only a decade ago. Earlier, they could not even watch the Jamboo Savari. Now, they have a reserved enclosure on the palace premises to watch Jamboo Savari.

While tourists from different cultural backgrounds try to explore the rich heritage of Mysuru through Dasara events, particularly Jamboo Savari, rarely do we remember these people who play a crucial role in keeping the tradition of regal procession alive.