JOIN USA journey along the curvy mountainous roads of the south-western districts of Karnataka is loved by many explorers because of the picturesque views and serene landscape. Acknowledging the very possibilities, and with an ambition to connect a little deeper with nature, we set out on a trek to what is famed to be one of the most beautiful and most difficult trekking spots in Karnataka: Charmadi Ghat.
Dinesh Holla, a well-known naturalist who has been striving hard to protect the Western Ghats ecosystem for decades, was the trekking guide we had sought for all the right reasons. Planning a trek in the Charmadi region, which is a part of the Western Ghats, requires much more than just enthusiasm, due to the dense forest and high peaks. And a day within the Charmadi Ghat and the Jenukallu range, under scorching sun and frequent shades granted by the thick canopy of the rainforest, gave us a glimpse of what it means to be close to nature.
Hills and legends
Our trek began at a spot, around 25 km from Belthangady, near a huge tree that would normally go unnoticed as we travel through the Ghat. The path is narrow and embedded with stones and massive tree roots. This path, which is right along the highway yet hidden within greenery, leads us to the first peak called the Kodaikal (also called Kodekallu due to its umbrella like structure at the top). It is situated nearly 3,200 feet above sea level.
Dinesh provides insights on the views that unfold along the way - the rainforest, River Nethravati, peaks like Balegudda, Amedikallu, Minchukallu, and more. Each of these hills has a legend linked to its name and existence. Elaborating on the legacies associated with the peaks, Amedikallu is a hilltop whose existence is traced to the Mahabharata period as per legends.
The Punyakoti peak speaks for itself as we view it from atop the Kodaikal peak. It looks exactly like a silhouette of a cow and a tiger facing each other, holding reference to a popular Kannada fable called the Punyakoti. Minchukallu derives its name from the fact that it is the highest peak in the Charmadi range, and is considered to have shot up like a lightening bolt.
Within the rainforest, we experience a sense of serenity. It is like an air-conditioned weather set-up within the forest, and as much as everyone would love to stay there forever; it is pretty much an impossible task to get out of the place without an expert. Dinesh explains to us the significance of the ecosystem, while also bringing to our notice the dark side - illegal activities such as hunting, human-induced forest fire, timber mafia and mining that have damaged this biodiversity hotspot. Dinesh warns that destruction of rainforests will have irreversible implications, and the reason behind making provisions for trekking here is because young people need to understand the importance of saving Western Ghats.
Reluctantly walking out of the rainforest at the foothill of Balegudda, we put on an ambitious face to conquer the 4,000 feet high peak. The Balegudda peak is difficult to climb as the hill is covered with grass and we walk over a seemingly endless uphill. Under the scorching sun, energised by oranges, that we all had brought as per the directions of Dinesh, it took us nearly two hours to reach the peak. Well, it is all worth it once at the peak - for it seems like this is what the top of the world must look like. The gushing winds and the spectacular view wash away whatever strain we might have experienced. 'A paradise that might have been' is the phrase that pops up in each one's mind after conquering the peak.
Tribal life
When we just assumed that the trek has been completed with two peaks (Kodaikal and Balegudda), Dinesh took us nearly 10 kilometres within the forest to meet the tribals residing there. The Gowdas tribe live in a small hamlet there, with only five families living in close vicinity. They lead a peaceful yet highly difficult life that none of us can imagine. Their warmth and hospitality was memorable. After interacting with them and listening to their experiences in the wild, we called it a day. The Western Ghats embraced us gladly as we sought to explore it for a day, but the embrace was as much a plea for us to act towards preserving it, as warm it was.
A trek within the Charmadi Ghat gives a touch of accomplishment to the explorer's sense of exploration. That day, every drop of water counted as we climbed the peaks. Every tree cried for help as we eased out a little under its canopy. A trek in the Charmadi Ghat range changes our perspectives and makes us more responsible as human beings. After spending a day with nature, we returned more aware and more conscious.