Heaps of eye-catching earrings made of sparkling pieces of mirror, cowrie shells and old silver coins, attractive anklets, necklaces and plastic strip bangles were all laid out in an inviting manner for customers to take their pick. Lalavva, dressed in colourful Lambani costumes, sat next to this spread looking expectantly at passersby. However, she didn’t look too happy.

So was the case with another seller from Solapur seated on the other side of the road. His wares comprised colourful ghetia (long skirt), kanchali (blouse), ghangato (odhni), phulia (dresses for special occasions) and embroidered handbags. Seated alongside were a man selling spools of multi-coloured threads and an old woman who was busy stringing pearls to bangles.

It is quite a common scene to find people selling such colourful ware including bright-hued fabrics and assorted items of jewellery like vankia, hamsali (necklace) and jumki, in fairs that happen in the various districts of Mumbai and Karnataka. In fact, over 6-7,000 members of the Lambani community from Maharashtra, Tamilnadu and Karnataka take part in fairs that take place regularly in Bagalkot and Bijapur districts.

Sadly, not many youngsters visit tents devoted to selling clothes and jewellery meant for Lambanis only. Worse still, only women over fifty years of age wear their traditional Lambani attire. In fact, it is a pleasure to watch Lambani women in their traditional costumes that are at once spectacular and stunning.

Putting together a Lambani costume is no joke. A lot of patience and effort is needed to piece together colourful pieces of cloth and embroider them with mirrors, aluminium buttons, coins, cowrie shells, beads, chains, bells and such other embellishments.

According to Rukkavva Poojari from Neelanagar who frequents the fair at Bagalkot on a regular basis, each Lambani costume costs anything from 4-5,000 as it takes months to actually work on them carefully.
Lalavva, who has been selling her wares at fairs in Bijapur, Bidar and Gulbarga districts for the past 20 years says, “Business has come down drastically as young women of the Lambani community are no longer interested in wearing their traditional costume. They prefer salwar kameez and hence our items have hardly any takers.”
It is sad but true. Young women of the Lambani community wish to be in tune with the times as far as their dress habits are concerned. They feel their traditional dresses are for the older generation only. They even say they are embarrassed to wear their colourful costumes.

While the older generation of the community sticks to the traditional manner of dressing and the younger generation has taken to modern methods of dressing, the middle aged have chosen the middle path and still wear their traditional dress, but with minor modifications. Though there is nothing wrong in the younger generation wishing to join the mainstream by dressing up like the rest of their age, they should not hesitate to wear their traditional costume is the general idea among members of the community.

Wish these young women wear their traditional dresses at least on certain special occasions like weddings and festivals. If not, an interesting and colourful dress culture will be lost forever, making an occasional appearance only in fashion shows of the future.

Translated by Chethana Dinesh