Hrishikesh is a dream destination on the tourism itinerary of many, and rightly so, because it holds something interesting for every visitor. While nature lovers enjoy the beauty of river Ganges flowing through the valley, the mountains and the forest, others aim to master Yoga, Ayurvedic medicine and Indian philosophy. While pilgrims stop over here on their way to holy Char Dham Yathra, youngsters camp here to experience the adventurous white water rafting in the rapids of Ganges. Whatever the case may be, many get addicted to this place just after one visit.
The journey to Hrishikesh is just 24 kilometres from Haridwar and it took about an hour by jeep. Before reaching Hrishikesh, we took a diversion and went up another hill to have darshan of Neelakanth Maha Deva. “Landslides are common in this road,” said the driver, so we chose to divert our attention from the winding narrow road and took in the beautiful surroundings.
The valley had some unusual trees in bloom and the most charming was Indian Coral tree with its glorious red blooms.
As per the legend, Neelkanth Maha Deva temple is built where Lord Shiva meditated to cool down the tremendous heat that was generated after he drank Halahal Visha, which came out during the Samudra Manthana. In fact, the South Indian style Gopuram of the main temple depicted this scene.
Sealed plastic glasses containing Ganges water were sold along with other Pooja items; because in this temple, any devotee can do Abhisheka, i.e pour holy Ganges water on the Shivalinga. A huge tree trunk with a girth of about eight feet is part of the temple itself.
Hrishikesh, the main town is like any other town. Hotels are situated near the bus stand whereas the ashrams, temples and bathing ghats are lined along the holy river Ganges in the other part of town called Muni ki Reti.
The rooms at Parmarth Niketan where we stayed, were simple and provided all the basic facilities. We were privileged to have a room facing the Ganges. The 6:00 pm aarthi in front of the huge Shiva Statue in meditation pose is the highlight of Parmarth Niketan. Shivanand Ashram, Geetha Bhavan, Kali Kamblivale Ashram, Vanaprasth Ashram etc are some of the other big and important ashrams.
Along with many Indian aspirants, foreigners also stay in these Ashrams for months together to learn Yoga. Some of them are permanent residents of Hrishikesh.
Hrishikesh is the place where the sacred river Ganges comes down from Shivalik mountains in Himalayas and starts flowing in the Northern plains of India. In ancient times, many rishis have meditated here and hence it is a holy place for Hindus. There is a ferry service to cross the river. Both the Eastern and Western banks of Ganges are connected by two suspension bridges.
The famous Lakshman Jhoola which was built decades ago as a footbridge, used to sway with the load of pedestrians. Now it has been strengthened by steel ropes and doesn’t sway even though humans, cows, handcarts and motorbikes cross it simultaneously.
The other bridge called Ram Jhoola, was recently built by Swamy Shivananda. We were told that it became operational only after the name Shivananda Jhoola was changed to Ram Jhoola. Devotees offer coins to the river and pray for prosperity. These coins are recovered by small boys risking their life. So getting battered and discoloured coins as small change from shops is quite common.
The river banks are strewn with boulders and fine white sand. To maintain the cleanliness of the water, washing clothes in the river water or use of soap while bathing etc is prohibited. Many devotees prefer to carry Ganges water from Hrishikesh as it is cleaner.
There are separate bathing ghats for women. Ignoring the urban privacy norms, I ventured to take bath in the cold river water. Once the auspicious ritual was over, I rushed out to grab a towel, only to be told by other ladies to let the water dry on my body! So there I was, braving the breeze and praying to the Sun God.
The shops are full of souvenirs like sealed copper jars containing water from the Ganges, cotton casuals and woollens.
Besides restaurants, ashrams also have simple and reasonably priced food outlets where delicious vegetarian food is served.
As we strolled leisurely on the roads, sat tension-free at the ghats feeding small wheat balls to the fish, listened to bhajans, chatted with like-minded tourists, and exchanged greetings with every passersby, the sheer simplicity of lifestyle seeped in slowly, and soon we found ourselves enchanted by this mesmeric place.