A NIFT graduate, Samant promotes the silk weavers of Bhagalpur through an NGO named ‘Pradhan’. Working with the poorest of weavers in the remotest of the villages, the two couturiers have a mission — to take the best of traditional Indian art on the international fashion map. Samant sleeps and breathes Indian heritage in fashion.

Fashion journey...

I actually left IIT (Kanpur) to join NIFT. I love creative media. I wanted to study film editing, graphics and photography. But the courses are too expensive, though I will definitely get into photography one day.

Importance of IMFF...

It’s a great event because IMFF 2006 gave me my first break. I have read biographies of Rohit Bal, Abraham and Thakore and now I am participating with them. This year I showcased at the London Fashion Week. Now I have orders from Rio, London and South Africa.

India on the international map...

India is the biggest market. There is a lot of money here and all the biggest brands are coming here. Trust me India will be over-saturated in time to come. My trip to London this year was an eye-opener. Why should I go to the west, when I have everything in India.

Emancipating Bhagalpuri weavers...

I work with an NGO named ‘Pradhan’ in Bhagalpur. We teach the silk weavers how to increase their per capita income. So, we make our own fabric and do embroidery on shawls. We insist on the use of handlooms because we don’t want to lose our traditional skill. We are against the powerloom. The new generation is setting up factories in Gujarat and even Bangalore. But sadly, they have forgotten their own Bhagalpur.

Response to professional choice...

I come from a village called Jamalpur, which is 120 kilometres from Bhagalpur. So, people didn’t know much about fashion design. But my parents were supportive. My relatives still don’t understand what I am doing (chuckles).

Boy from Bihar at NIFT...

When I joined NIFT, students thought I was a rickshaw puller from Bihar. That’s the image they have of Biharis. Why blame them when Biharis themselves are ashamed to say where they come from. But my work spoke for itself.

Degree in design...

It’s important to have a degree in design, pattern-making and garment construction. But again, there are many NIFT graduates who don’t even have a job. So, your talent and career planning are equally important.

Designing ain’t a joke...

It’s very difficult to design garments. I start right at the yarn. I design my own weave and then plan my garment. I don’t buy fabric and make garments out of them, for the market is overflowing with such clothes.

The Indian couture industry...

Difficult, especially if you don’t have any financial back-up. Neither did I get any sponsors nor do I come from a financially-sound home. But I trusted my talent. It’s a 24/7 job and it’s not at all glamorous. I have not gone home for the last two months. I have been working late and sleeping in my studio.

Fashion mission...

My cuts are very western but concept is Indian. I want to promote Bhagalpuri silk in a big way. Being in the creative field, it’s my responsibility to promote my Indian fabric, Bhagalpuri silk, worldwide.
Smita Balram Kumar