As winter blankets Kashmir in its chilly embrace, the culinary preferences of Kashmiris seamlessly shift, mirroring the seasonal transition itself. Winter heralds the return of traditional dishes to the local platter, and one such delicacy is the smoked fish, fondly known as phaere. This dish, unique to Kashmir, graces the tables only during the winter months, from November to March, and carries a distinct flavour, texture, and appearance.
Around 15 years ago, approximately 60 families residing in the Anchar area of Srinagar, adjacent to the freshwater Anchar Lake, made their livelihoods by preparing and selling smoked fish. A decade ago, a substantial number of women in Anchar were involved in the meticulous process of cleaning and smoking the fish. However, today, this tradition is upheld by only a handful of families, including Hafiza’s, whose family remains among the dedicated few in Anchar who continue to craft smoked fish. Hafiza describes the intricate process, emphasising that the fish are smoked only on sunny days, a crucial prerequisite for achieving the desired flavour. The entire procedure is time-consuming as it begins with cleaning the fish, followed by drying them under the winter sun for several hours before they undergo the smoking stage. Before smoking, the innards are removed, leaving the scales intact, as they play a crucial role in achieving the right degree of smoking.
The fish are laid out on a bed of wild grass to dry under the modest winter sun for a few hours. Once adequately aired and sunned, the final stage involves smoking the fish. Hafiza’s son, Parvez Ramzan, explains that thathir, a long, wild grass obtained from the nearby mountains in Ganderbal district, is used to smoke the fish. This grass is purchased in June and July and stored for winter use. As the smoking process concludes, the smoked fish emerges, adorned with bits of burnt grass clinging to the charred, flaky fish skin. Locals often prepare it with selected vegetables like radish, tomatoes, and the Kashmiri kale known as haakh. Despite the changing times, the tradition of crafting phaere remains a flavourful link to Kashmir’s culinary heritage.