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Seeking tranquillity in Kumaon

The Kasar Devi region of Uttarakhand offers rich biodiversity and unparalleled views of the Himalayan ranges
Last Updated 19 April 2022, 16:56 IST
The Kumaon. Credit: Nivi Shrivastava
The Kumaon. Credit: Nivi Shrivastava
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Golu Devta temple in Chitai village. Credit: Nivi Shrivastava
Golu Devta temple in Chitai village. Credit: Nivi Shrivastava

The dense forests of Uttarakhand's Almora district overlook the snow-capped Nanda Devi range. Amidst the unique hilly biome is the sparsely populated Kasar Devi region between Almora town and Binsar, which is a perfect summer holiday destination for nature and peace seekers.

One of the easiest ways to reach the foothills of the Himalayas is via Pantnagar airport (close to Nainital) or Kathgodam railway station, from where you can begin a scenic road trip up the hills and explore Kumaon.

Temple Run in the hills

Over the centuries, pilgrims and many distinguished artists and scholars have visited the Kasar Devi region to meditate and study the rare flora and fauna in the jungle. From names like Swami Vivekananda, DH Lawrence, Timothy Leary, and Bob Dylan to modern-day Bollywood celebrities and business tycoons—the rich and the famous often come to the Kasar Devi temple for solace. The 2nd century CE Hindu shrine is also renowned for its 360-degree views of Himalayan peaks from an elevation of 2,116 meters above sea level and is a popular stop for religious tourists.

In Almora town, one can visit the 1,000-year-old Nanda Devi temple, where devotees worship goddess Durga with Lord Shiva and other deities carved in stone figurines.

In Katarmal, 12 km from Almora, one can visit the Surya Mandir temple complex, comprising 44 big and small shrines. Similar to this but more popular among pilgrims is the Jageshwar valley of temples, 37 km from Almora and known for clusters of ancient Shiva temples built in the deodar forest.

Among the many temples, the shrine of the local deity Golu Devta (aka the bell temple) in Chitai village is famous for its unique legend. The Golu Devta, once a Chand King who later became the god of justice, is believed to grant wishes. Millions of devotees come here to pray for justice and tie bronze bells and handwritten letters in the temple's vicinity, hoping to get their wishes granted.

Nature treks and wild adventures

In the elevated terrains and untouched forests of Kasar Devi, one can find stretches of chir pine, rhododendron, Himalayan cypress, pindrow fir, deodar, sal, and oak. The winding roads through the forests offer unparalleled views and take you to the Binsar Wildlife sanctuary in just 30 minutes. It is a paradise for bird watchers and naturalists where one can spot around 200 species of birds in the jungles. Forest treks can take you to the elusive Hunter's Rock or Dylan's Point in Binsar. Closer to Almora is the Crank's Ridge, sometimes called Hippie Hill, a pine-covered ridge that can be covered as part of a hike to Kasar Devi temple.

In the lap of nature

The best thing about visiting the Almora hills is the tranquillity and hospitable environment everywhere you go. The locals are very warm and welcoming toward tourists, and a good idea would be to find a homestay or cottage to experience the slow living. For those who like comfort and luxury, resorts and luxury hotels are available too. An excellent option for luxury travellers in this area is The Kumaon, frequented by art and nature lovers looking for a sustainable lifestyle in the hills. This transformative retreat's one-of-a-kind sustainable architecture and design ethos is based on abstract modernism blended with the natural landscape and environment. One can also take up a few yoga lessons or opt for quick treks and nature walks at this property.

The writer is an independent journalist, free-thinker, and an avid traveller.

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(Published 19 April 2022, 15:58 IST)

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