An antique Parsi Gara.
Credit: Ajay Bhoj
Parsi embroidery has woven its spell across centuries and continents, shimmering its way from heirloom trunks to haute couture runways. Also known as Parsi Gara, this embroidery is much more than ornamentation; it is a chronicle of journeys, migrations, and cultural confluences. From boutiques and bridal trousseaus to elegant home décor, its intricate beauty continues to unfold everywhere.
The story begins in Persia (modern-day Iran), where this art form first took root. When the Parsi community migrated to India between the 8th and 10th centuries, they carried with them not only their faith but also their craft traditions. As caravans traversed the storied Silk Road, they brought in influences from China.
Thus, Parsi embroidery emerged as a unique fusion: Chinese motifs and techniques interwoven with Persian refinement, eventually finding a home in India. Over time, generations of artisans imbued it with mythology, symbolism, and a deep reverence for nature, ensuring that each piece carried not just thread, but meaning.
The art of the Gara
What distinguishes Parsi embroidery is its meticulous technique and lyrical motifs. Traditionally worked on fine fabrics like silk or georgette, the process begins with sketches drawn on paper and sample colours tested. The designs are then traced onto the fabric, and fine needles are used to render motifs in lustrous silk threads. Warp and weft threads create the sturdy canvas, while satin stitches, French knots, and other detailing build the characteristic depth and shimmer of the famous Gara. Textile designer Ashdeen Lilaowala, who has been at the forefront of reviving and contemporising this art, emphasises that wearability is key. “We always emphasise on drape and fall of the fabric such that every sari or garment we create is easy to move in, even if adorned with heavy embroidery,” he says. His favourite canvases include silk crêpes, satins, jacquards, and organza — luxurious fabrics that allow the embroidery to come alive.
The lexicon of Parsi embroidery is as rich as its history. Its motifs range from animals and birds to flowers, mythical creatures, and even cosmic elements. Every motif is steeped in symbolism, carrying messages of belief, blessing, or aspiration. The butterfly, for instance, is more than an aesthetic flourish. It signifies transformation, growth, and renewal. In the Gara tradition, it also represents longevity and a happy marriage. Butterflies often appear with satin-stitched wings and French-knotted antennae, gracing saris, coats, scarves, or even table runners.
Birds, too, play a vital role. The simurgh or phoenix, borrowed from Persian mythology, symbolises health and loyalty. The rooster, favoured on children’s garments, embodies victory over darkness, crowing each morning to announce the triumph of light.
Floral motifs, meanwhile, embody beauty, harmony, and spiritual significance. The chrysanthemum, or Kiku, introduced via Chinese influence, is associated with autumn and long life. Borders of saris often feature Ava Yazad, the angel of water, accompanied by water lilies — delicate evocations of purity and renewal. These patterns are not merely decorative; they are prayers stitched into fabric.
While Parsi embroidery thrived through the 19th and early 20th centuries, industrialisation and shifting tastes threatened its survival. Yet, passionate revivalists are ensuring it does not fade into obscurity.
Artisan Ajay Bhoj from New Delhi is dedicated to reviving the exquisite Cheena Chini Gara, a vintage treasure nearly a century old. These masterpieces, often created by Parsi women, depict scenes of bygone eras — majestic ships, mythological tales, flora, and fauna — rendered with vegetable dyes and untwisted Chinese silk threads. Bhoj’s work not only restores these heirlooms but also reminds us of the painstaking artistry and imagination that defined them. If tradition safeguards the soul of Parsi embroidery, innovation is what gives it wings today. As fashion sensibilities evolve, designers like Ashdeen are expanding the art’s vocabulary without compromising its essence. This innovation extends beyond saris. Gara embroidery now embellishes lehengas, jackets, blouses, scarves, and even accessories. Its motifs are stylised, colour palettes reimagined to suit modern tastes, and fabrics lightened to increase wearability. What was once reserved for ceremonial wear now steps comfortably into daily fashion and contemporary design. From adapting motifs to suit individual preferences to blending embroidery with minimalism for modern wardrobes, artisans are discovering new audiences.
The resurgence of Parsi embroidery underscores its timelessness. It thrives because it is more than just thread and fabric: it is memory, mythology, artistry, and identity. Designers like Ashdeen and revivalists like Bhoj are demonstrating how heritage can be preserved not as relics but as living traditions.