Yes, Holi is here... and so is the inevitable thandai, when drinks spiked with bhang is the order of the day. The moon and madness have been closely linked throughout human history. And at the Holi Purnima (full moon), we Indians yield to one of our maddest festivals, and the thandai becomes holy... And, of course, on Holi when people like us, make bhang a dietary supplement, makes you wonder why bhang is still illegal in parts of India? Doesn’t it?
There is lack of clarity on the legality or illegality of bhang. A superintendent of the narcotics control bureau says, “We have no control over consuming or selling of bhang. The percentage of dehydrocrotonin (the narcotic agent) in bhang is negligible, so there is no outright ban on its consumption or sale. However, the official refused to comment whether they would take action against hotels or restaurants serving thandai laced with bhang.
Many north Indian metros have their own favourite thandai shops, and the best of all, namely the Banarasi thandai is a unique affair. On any given evening at Gaudhaulia Chowk in Benaras, the Mishrambhu Thandai stall attracts large crowds. People flock to feast on this delicious cooler made using an assortment of dry fruits, fruit juices and milk. Added to the drink is a lump or two of bhang, transforming it into a delightful murky green mixture. One can also head for Baba Thandai, a tiny shop deeper in the city. Inspite of its melodramitcally orange walls and seats, this shop offers more subtle and authentic flavoured milks, definitely catering to the more discerning customer.
In Lucknow, the century-old Rajathansdi wala run by Rajkumar Tripathi is still housed in a small room.
His grandfather Shivaabhar Tripathi came from Unnao, 50 km from Lucknow, and served the Nawabs of Oudh, who were regular patrons. Even today, there are customers who have been hooked to Raja’s thandai for over 50 years. “I am happy with my business,” says Rajkumar. “It is by God’s grace that the glut of cold drinks in the market does not affect my thandai.” The milk is flavoured with cardamom, saffron and pista.
Rammo Guru, who has been making thandai in old Delhi for the last 27 years, says, “The thandai that I make has a totally different taste from the one made at home. That is why people line up at my shop during Holi!” and adds “Apart from milk, black pepper, rose petals, almonds, posta dana or khus-khus and dry fruit are added to the thandai mixture, one night before it is served at Holi”.