The shrine and resting place of Sangolli Rayanna at Nandgad; the Kittur palace ruins.
Credit: Photos by author
Kittur, in the Belagavi district of Karnataka, dates back to the 12th century when it was known as Geejaganahalli. Today, the town is synonymous with Rani Chennamma, who challenged the mighty British East India Company.
A majestic statue of the valiant queen guards the entrance to Kittur, and a narrow road leads to the remains of a 17th-century fort and palace. Amid the ruins stands the modest Kittur Rani Chennamma Museum, inaugurated in 1967.
Curator Raghavendra points out a miniature replica of Kittur’s fortified royal residence, as it was in its prestigious past. He explains that it had living quarters, kitchens, bathrooms, meeting halls and a platform where citizens assembled to voice their grievances.
A thousand people could be accommodated in a spacious dining area. Above all, there was an effective water-distribution system. Gardens with ponds and fountains adorned the 23-acre expanse, encompassed by a wall of black basalt rock. Intricately carved teak doors and windows are on display at the museum, as is the royal standard outside.
Rani Chennamma was the wife of Raja Mallasarja, the last of a long line of rulers of the Desai dynasty. In 1816, on the death of her husband, Chennamma took the reins of government to assist her son, Shivalingarudrasarja, Mallasarja’s successor. Both Chennamma and Shivalingarudrsarja thought it prudent to adopt an heir during the latter’s lifetime, since he was in poor health.
In September, 1824, soon after Shivalingarudrasarja’s demise, His Holiness Gurusiddesha, of the nearby Kallumath (religious institution and spiritual home of Kittur royalty), enthroned the boy-king as Sawai Mallasarja II.
This tactical move, which contravened Lord Dalhousie’s infamous Doctrine of Lapse, forced Rani Chennamma to defend Kittur in armed combat (the museum houses her weapons and armour) against the enraged British. Opposing her, in an epic encounter on October 23, 1824, was St John Thackeray, collector and political agent for the East India Company.
As he and his troops prepared to attack Kittur Fort, Thackeray had no idea that Rani Chennamma had anticipated their arrival. Intending to use cannons to storm the gates, he found them open. A large contingent of Kittur soldiers charged out, and the British were defeated.
Among the casualties was 33-year-old Thackeray, who, while attempting to eliminate Rani Chennamma, was shot and killed by her bodyguard, Amatur Balappa. Thackeray and his compatriots are interred in the European Cemetery, Dharwad (32 km from Kittur).
Basavaraj Naikar’s novel, The Queen of Kittur, not only provides a fascinating account of the life of Rani Chennamma, but information about Thackeray. The book mentions that he sent an English physician to treat Shivalingarudrasarja. Unfortunately, by then, the young raja, who was suffering from tuberculosis, was beyond medical aid.
Rani Chennamma’s success against foreign interference was short-lived. Less than two months later, the British chose duplicity over diplomacy and launched another assault on Kittur. This time, Rani Chennamma’s army was routed. Her palace and fort were demolished and their treasures plundered. The queen and her teenage daughter-in-law were imprisoned at Bailhongal Fort, not far from the scene of Rani Chennamma’s erstwhile victory. According to Basavaraj Naikar, she was treated as befitted her rank and permitted daily pujas.
Rani Chennamma’s health deteriorated in prison. She was sustained by the promise of Rayanna from Sangolli (15 km from Kittur), who had fought beside her, that he would restore her kingdom to its former glory. Rani Chennamma died, aged 50, on February 21, 1829. The monument that marks her resting place, at Bailhongal, is currently under renovation.
Sangolli Rayanna waged guerrilla warfare against the British until he was captured and subsequently executed. A banyan tree grows over his grave at Nandgad (28 km from Kittur), where a sapling was planted nearly two centuries ago. People flock to the spot, now a shrine, to pay homage to the hero. He and Rani Chennamma, whom he served faithfully, are among the patriots who paved the path for our independence.