To add to this variety of destinations is a jewel at Sigandur. Located across the backwaters of Sharavathi at 40 kms from Sagar, this island temple is well known for its powerful deity of Chowdeshwari as also for the unparalleled natural beauty around it.
Boarding an early morning bus at Sagar, I headed towards Holebagilu, a nondescript village on the edge of the backwaters. As part of the journey of 30 kms, I passed through a stretch of pristine forests listening to pleasant birdsong. Arriving at the waters, I had ample time to stroll around before the launch would take off. Holebagilu itself is in the thick of the forests of the Sharavathi Valley Wildlife Sanctuary. The steps lead to the top of a hillock with a paragola. With a panoramic view of the water body, the hills and forests, this makes for a fine picnic spot.
As the launch arrived from the other bank, people, some with their vehicles in tow, huddled up to get a berth. Though Sigandur can be approached by a land route via Nagara, it is much more fun to sail across the lake. The huge reservoir was formed by the Linganamakki backwaters when a dam was built across the Sharavathi to generate hydro-electric power. As a result, many an island has been formed with clusters of trees. The tapering ruddy banks, the blue water and the leafless trunks of half-submerged trees all combine to create a picture postcard view.
The launch service maintained by the Directorate of Ports & Inland Water Transport is doing great service in transporting visitors and their vehicles throughout the day.
On the other bank is the village of Kalasavalli where buses wait to ferry pilgrims to the shrine 10 kms away. The temple nestled amidst dense forests in a valley is abuzz with thousands of devotees. It has a history of 300 years with an interesting legend, according to the priests. Long ago, a village elder, Sheshappa, came here on a hunting expedition.
Wandering in the forests the whole day, he lost track of the entourage accompanying him. Alone in the fierce jungle infested with wild animals, he prayed to the goddess to protect him and went into a stupor. He had a dream in which goddess Chowdeshwari appeared and said she would like to stay here and bestow virtues on the people, and that he should build a temple for her. Waking up from the dream, Sheshappa, not being aware of the rituals, was afraid of fulfilling the task and approached priest Duggappajja.
Impressed, the priest agreed to help him and they built a small temple. The belief that Chowdeshwari would solve any problem of the devotees gathered strength over the years.
Today, with full-fledged sevas and basic facilities, the temple has become an important religious destination. The shrine does not boast of any architectural splendour, but has a large courtyard with the sanctum in the middle. The image of Chowdeshwari fully decorated with flowers is a great sight. Outside, on the right, is a platform called Bhootada Katte with Veerabhadra, who stands guard to the temple.
The person behind the slew of developments the temple has seen is Ramappa, the Dharmadarshi. He is also known to offer suitable solutions, by virtue of his devotion, to various disputes of land, marriage, etc. of local people. Thousands of such disputes have been solved till date without recourse to the courts, it is said.
There is a practice of offering copper plates with inscription that the land or property is protected by Chowdeshwari and these boards are seen hung in front of houses, fences and even trees.
The pleasant cruise to the scenic surroundings coupled with the spiritual feel to the place, make a visit to Sigandur an unforgettable experience.
Getting there
Sigandur is best approached from Sagar (40 kms). Crossing the backwaters from Holebagilu to Kalasavalli, drive 10 kms more. Even buses and cars are transported by the launch. Sagar is 350 kms from Bangalore.