At NMoQ, Jiwan’s elevated Qatari cuisine includes a dessert shaped like a desert rose.
Credit: PHOTO BY AUTHORS
Although Qatari cuisine shares its culinary roots with Oman, Bahrain, and the Levant, it proudly maintains a distinct identity, separate from its Emirati neighbours.
At its heart lies the beloved pairing of rice and meat, prepared in myriad ways. Mandi, for instance, is slow-cooked in a traditional clay oven called a taboon, while majboos — a celebratory dish meaning “to be engaged” — is a fragrant, layered preparation of spiced rice and tender meat, simmered in a single pot. Mansaf, a dish named after the grand platter it’s served upon, features lamb cooked in a rich sauce of fermented dried yoghurt, set atop mounds of rice. Stews form another cornerstone of Qatari kitchens. Saloona, a vibrant tomato-based stew, and margoog, a hearty dish layering slow-cooked meat and vegetables with delicate sheets of dough, showcase the country’s love for robust, spice-infused broths. A popular dish to savour is madrouba, a creamy, comforting wheat porridge simmered with lamb, cardamom ghee, and garnished with fried onions. Its name means “that which is struck,” and refers to the rhythmic stirring that softens the grains into a rich, velvety blend. Qatari food is best experienced in the capital Doha.
Be it the striking desert rose–shaped museum, the National Museum of Qatar (NMoQ) designed by French architect Jean Nouvel, or in a simple majlis (traditional gathering place) in souks and local markets, every meal is steeped in history and heritage. The exquisite architectural design of the NMoQ is inspired by the region’s unique geological marvel — crystalline rosettes of rock and sand formed over centuries that magically pop out of the Arabian desert.
Strolling through the alleys of Souq Waqif, Doha’s historic marketplace, is an adventure in aromas and flavours. Here, the air is thick with the scent of grilled meats and freshly ground spices. Traditional blends like za’atar, sumac, baharat, bezar, and daqoos are piled high in burlap sacks, while loomi — the iconic dried black lime of the Gulf — adds its sharp tang to countless dishes. The souq, once a standing market where vendors waded through high tides, today buzzes with the energy of bird sellers, falcon handlers, and spice traders, each corner offering a tantalising bite: juicy kofta, smoky kebabs, crispy samboussek filled with herbs, and piping hot safiha or meat pies.
No Qatari experience is complete without gahwah — Arabic coffee perfumed with cardamom — served alongside plump, syrupy dates. In traditional social clubs like Majlis al Dama, conversations flow over rounds of coffee and friendly games of dama (a local form of backgammon). Dates like Ajwa, Barhi, Sagai, and the much-prized Khalas are savoured slowly, their honeyed sweetness symbolising hospitality and abundance. The importance accorded to dates is evident in the two palm trees with the dhow and swords on the Qatari emblem.
As evening falls over the city, the streets around Souq Waqif come alive with the cry of tamar hindi (helpful for gastric disorders) vendors who pour cups of this tangy drink with a dramatic bow. This juice (helpful for gastric disorders) harks to a time when ships brought pressed tamarind bricks from India to Arabia; the word tamarind is derived from ‘tamr-i-hind’, meaning ‘dates of India’. During Ramadan, many choose to break their fast with this refreshing sweet-sour drink.
The influence of the sea is never far from Doha’s tables. Qatar’s 563 kilometres of Gulf coastline offer an abundance of seafood. Grilled hammour (orange-spotted grouper) and kofer (king soldier bream) are cherished staples, reflecting the country’s age-old relationship with the waters that sustained it long before the discovery of oil. Another everyday ritual finds its way into Doha’s teashops and street corners: Karak. This milky, spiced tea, introduced by Indian immigrants during Qatar’s oil boom, has become a cultural phenomenon, especially popular among the young. Strong, sweet, and deeply satisfying, Karak has woven itself into the city’s fabric as tightly as the traditional gahwah (coffee). Today, Doha’s culinary landscape mirrors its cosmopolitan spirit — an intricate dance between tradition, innovation and global influences.
Qatari food continues to celebrate its rich past while embracing the flavours of the world. So be it inside a tent in the dunes, a breezy Arabic lounge by the Corniche, a ritzy restaurant in the yacht-lined marinas of The Pearl island touted as Arabian Riviera, dining in Doha is an experience that remains etched in every visitor’s memory.
(The authors are travel/food writers and culinary consultants “loosely based” in Bengaluru. They customise solutions for the hospitality industry, have authored guides and coffee table books, curated TV shows, set up an award-winning restaurant and are working on a book on heritage eateries of India. Follow their adventures on Instagram: @red_scarab)