An aerial view of the Wesley Cathedral in Mysuru.
Photos courtesy Wikimedia Commons
The CSI (Church of South India) Wesley Cathedral, Mysuru, does not conform to the popular image of cathedrals as imposing edifices. Yet, with its majestic bell tower and elegant arches, it is impressive in an understated way. Besides, a cathedral does not have to be large and lofty. What distinguishes it from a church is that a cathedral (from cathedra, Latin for ‘chair’) is the seat of the Bishop.
In a city teeming with stately structures of historic interest, a relatively small sanctuary that can accommodate just 600 people could easily go unnoticed. Amid hectic sightseeing, however, one would do well to stop at Wesley Cathedral, set in serene surroundings, and spend a few moments in quiet reflection.
Situated on B N Road, close to the Suburban Bus Stand, Wesley Cathedral is not the oldest church in Mysuru. That distinction belongs to nearby St Bartholomew’s Church, built in 1832. Wesley Cathedral, originally a church, dates back a century and a half and owes its existence to Rev John Hachian, who arrived in India from England in 1821.
Hachian was a member of the Wesleyan Missionary Society, a group inspired by John Wesley’s 18th-century religious revival movement in England. In 1863, Hachian returned to his country on sabbatical to collect donations for the church he was eager to build.
He probably did not raise the requisite funds because, although the Maharaja of Mysore at the time granted land for Hachian’s pet project, construction was delayed. Work began on the church in 1868, and services started in 1871 (the date may be seen on a side wall near the entrance), but it took several years to complete and assumed its present form as late as 1906.
Local traditions
While St Bartholomew’s Church was established for European officers serving the Mysore Maharaja and the British administrators of the kingdom, Hachian envisaged a place of worship for local Christians. So, it is that, while services at St Bartholomew’s Church are still held in English, Wesley Cathedral, despite its striking colonial architecture, does not use the language, except for the name on the façade.
Sundar Raj, who is responsible for the maintenance of the church (his duties include supervising the task of cleaning an elevated chandelier), points out prayer books and hymnals in Kannada. For English, he says with a smile, one must go to St Bartholomew’s.
Appropriately, the archway above the altar area of Wesley Cathedral bears the Kannada version of Jesus’ invitation from St Matthew’s Gospel: “Come to me, all you who are weary and burdened, and I will give you rest.” Of course, the English words themselves are translated from Greek.
What requires no linguistic knowledge, indeed, no literacy, to appreciate are the scriptural scenes depicted on the stained-glass windows. Since they are only visible when the sun shines through them, it is best to plan a daylight visit to Wesley Cathedral.