Miraflores District on the coast.
Credit: Wikimedia Commons
As my airport taxi drove into Lima, my first glimpse was of the sparkling Pacific Ocean. Being a Mumbai girl, I was reminded of Marine Drive, and immediately felt at home. Lima has the reputation of having grey, cloudy skies reflected in the grey waters (much like Mumbai’s Arabian Sea).
After checking into my hotel in Miraflores, I headed to El Malecón, the scenic 10-kilometre promenade perched atop the cliffs overlooking the sea. It has walking and cycling paths, lush gardens, and several art pieces, including Victor Delfín’s iconic sculpture, El Beso (The Kiss) in Parque del Amor (Love Park).
I also visited Larcomar, a shopping centre built into the cliffs with breathtaking ocean views. Later, the sunset from my hotel’s rooftop bar was equally stunning with shades of orange, pink, and purple that defy any Pantone code. It was no wonder I quickly fell in love with this vibrant city.
When Spanish conquistador Francisco Pizarro founded Lima in 1535, he named it ‘Ciudad de los Reyes’ (City of the Kings), as its founding coincided with the Catholic feast of Epiphany. Today, the city’s colonial heritage is visible in landmarks throughout its historic centre. Plaza Mayor (also known as Plaza de Armas) is flanked by the Lima Cathedral, whose Baroque exterior and 18th-century neoclassical interior house a chapel containing Pizarro’s remains.
Nearby stands the grand Palacio de Gobierno, the residence of Peru’s president, where you can watch the changing of the guard at noon. A short walk takes you to the House of Peruvian Literature, a beautiful free-entry library housed in Lima’s former train station. Another gem is the Monasterio de San Francisco, which holds over 25,000 antique texts, some predating the Spanish conquest. A guided tour of the monastery includes the stunning Moorish-style cupola, biblical paintings, and a descent into the eerie catacombs, South America’s largest collection of human remains.
Once you’ve explored the historic centre, head to upscale Miraflores for a meal or some shopping. In the heart of this modern district, you’ll find Huaca Pucllana, an adobe pyramid dating back to around 500 AD. It was once a ceremonial and administrative centre of pre-Incan Lima culture. Don’t miss a stroll through Kennedy Park, a popular spot for locals, filled with street performers and food vendors in the evening. For a change of scene, visit the fishing neighbourhood of Chorrillos, ideally in the morning. Lima is the only South American capital by the ocean, and Chorrillos’ fish markets offer a glimpse of the Pacific’s rich bounty. Other markets worth visiting are Mercado 1 and 2 in Surquillo, where you can find everything from fresh produce to clothing and jewellery.
As evening falls, head to bohemian Barranco, home to trendy shops and vibrant street art. One of its most famous landmarks is the 100-foot Puente de los Suspiros (Bridge of Sighs). Legend says if you make a wish and hold your breath as you cross, your wish will come true. Whether or not that’s true, the bridge is a great spot to admire colourful murals. Nearby, the bright-yellow Hermitage of Barranco, once a chapel for fishermen, offers an intriguing backdrop, even though it’s been closed since an earthquake in 1974.