The St Alexander Nevsky Cathedral in Sofia is a domed basilica, with a gold-plated central dome. Inside, the Lord's Prayer is inscribed around the central dome.
Credit: Pixabay Photo
Of all the Balkan cities I’ve visited thus far, Sofia in Bulgaria was the one that surprised me the most. On a short layover after an adventure-packed trip to Western Europe, I chose Sofia as a place to wind down as I had been told of its relaxed pace and unhurried lifestyle. But life clearly had other plans for me!
Far from quiet and boring, Sofia, I realised, is a city that invites exploration, offering a rich tapestry of history, culture, and flavours.
Whether you’re wandering through ancient ruins, hiking in nature, or savouring local cuisine, each experience adds depth to your understanding of this fascinating destination.
Over four days, as I deep dived into Sofia’s offerings, I soon discovered that its charm lies not just in its sights but in the warmth of its people and their traditions. Both, modern as well as ancient.
Layers of fascination
Speaking of ancient, I found that the best orientation I got of Sofia was from below its modern-day surface! Located near the city centre, the Serdica complex showcases the remains of the ancient Roman city that once stood here. You can walk among the ruins, including columns and thermal baths, while learning about Sofia’s history as a crossroads of civilisations. The complex is also integrated into the modern city, with glass walkways that provide a fascinating contrast between old and new.
A few meters away from Serdica is the Regional History Museum where I got a peek
into Sofia’s 500-year-long Ottoman rule. One that contributed a lot to how the city has been shaped today — as a conduit between the Occidental and the Oriental worlds on multiple levels, from its culture and traditions to its food.
The Museum of Socialist Art is a fascinating place for a unique perspective on Bulgaria’s recent history. It houses an extensive collection of art from the socialist period, including sculptures, paintings, and propaganda posters. The outdoor sculpture garden is particularly interesting, showcasing pieces that reflect the era’s ideology.
Monumental brilliance
One of Sofia’s most iconic landmarks, the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral is a must-visit and something I even saw from up above as my flight from Zurich circled the city preparing to land.
Built in the early 20th century, this stunning Orthodox cathedral features a striking gold-plated dome and intricate mosaics. Step inside to admire the opulent interiors adorned with beautiful frescoes and icons. What was clear to me was that the cathedral is not just a religious site but also a symbol of Bulgarian national pride.
Another symbol of pride is the Boyana Church. A UNESCO World Heritage site, this
church is famous for its medieval frescoes, which are considered some of the most
important examples of Eastern European art. Located on the outskirts of Sofia, this
small but stunning church dates back to the 10th century. I booked myself into the daily guided tour that truly enriched my understanding of its historical significance and artistry.
Food for thought
As spoken of earlier, I soon saw for myself how the Ottoman influence is reflected in the wonderful food of Sofia. With dishes like kavarma (a slow-cooked meat stew) or moussaka (layered eggplant and minced meat). Then, there were also dishes like kyufte (koftas) and shish kebabs, and drinks like ayran — which is a cold yoghurt, water and salt-based drink that is often flavoured by adding sprigs of mint to it —that reflect this East meets West culinary synergy.
The best place to sample these is the grand Central Market Hall in the very heart of Sofia, directly opposite the aforementioned Regional History Museum. Here, was also where I tucked into a plate of the fresh and crisp shopska salad. Also called ‘chopska salad’, this iconic Bulgarian dish is a refreshing one made with diced tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and capsicum, and topped with crumbled white cow’s milk cheese called serene that’s quite akin to the Greek feta.
‘High’ street
For those who enjoy shopping and people-watching, Vitosha Boulevard is the
place to be. This bustling street, just off the main Sofia city centre, is lined with shops, cafés, and restaurants, making it a perfect spot to relax and soak in the atmosphere. Don’t miss the chance to grab a post-lunch coffee or a glass of local wine or rakia, a popular Bulgarian spirit, while enjoying views of the nearby Vitosha Mountain.
Speaking of which, another one of my greatest loves while travelling is to take a hike. Quite literally! And while in Sofia, a must-do activity is hiking up Vitosha Mountain. Easily accessible from the city, the mountain offers numerous trails that cater to all skill levels. In the warmer months, one can enjoy taking in the heady fragrance of the wildflowers and breathtaking views. While in winter, I was told, it transforms into a ski resort. But whatever the weather, make sure to take the lift to the Aleko platform area that offers panoramic views of stunning Sofia. A city that has so much to offer to those who give it a chance.