The grey expanse of the white desert was suddenly bathed in hues of brilliant gold. The sun had risen over the Great Rann of Kutch and the spotless white expanse of the salt desert shimmered in kaleidoscopic colours. We were at the Great Rann of Kutch to experience the euphoric Rann Utsav 2021-2022, a celebration of the ravishing beauty of nature. The Rann Utsav is a celebration of the culture, heritage, and cuisine of a region that’s right in the middle of one of the largest salt deserts in the world.
Shri Miyan Hussain, Sarpanch of Dhordo told us that “there was nothing here, it was a barren land without even a place to sit but today, Rann Utsav is organised here with much fanfare.” The Rann Utsav, which has been an annual feature for the last 15 years, has managed to draw the world’s attention to an area in the wild that was seemingly godforsaken. On the fringes of the vast salt marsh is the hub of vibrant activity during the Rann Utsav. It is a self-contained settlement with tents, where the celebration of the desert and its culture reaches a crescendo. “Chai, chai,” the shouts coming from outside our tent woke us up at 6 am. We enjoyed a steaming cup of tea, inside our tent which was furnished with all modern amenities, including an attached bathroom. It was still dark outside, but the excitement surging through our bodies ensured that we were ready and at Sunrise Point, a few kilometres away to be completely bowled over by a mesmerising sunrise.
The early morning sunrise experience was surreal, but soon the basic instinct of hunger took us to the huge dining hall that was buzzing with activity. It was time to yield to temptation and savour the famous Gujarati snacks dhokla, fafda, and many others. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner are served in the large dining hall within the tent city. The tent city accommodates about 1,000 people and showcases the handicrafts of the region. The vibrant stalls with their colourful wares not only give a peep into the rich heritage of the region, but you can also take a slice of it home with you. The esoteric and ancient Rogan Art, traditional art with roots in Persia, the unique craft of copper bell making, and lacquer art products are sure to have your attention riveted, as it did ours.
We also had the privilege of meeting the doyen of Rogan art, Padma Shri Abdul Gafur Khatri (Gafurbhai) and watching him and his son in action. Gaffurbhai’s work has travelled all the way to the White House when Barack Obama was the President of the USA. Come evening and the desert area erupts in rhythmic celebration as soon as the sun sinks behind the distant horizon. Cultural programmes take centre stage. We were enthralled by the unique Siddi Dhamal dance.
The venue of the Rann Utsav is a carnival in the desert and celebrates the triumph of the people of the area over the desert. The white desert strikes up a symphony with the stars, sun, and moon, providing the perfect backdrop for the extravaganza in the desert. The current edition of the Rann Utsav is on till February 20, 2022.