Cascades call in Kerala

A trip to Kerala opened my eyes to the serene beauty of North Kerala and also the death knell rung by the controversial Athirappilly hydel project where the public electricity utility in Kerala proposes to set up a hydroelectric dam on the Chalakudy river, above the falls.

All hell broke loose with the board trying to beat a deadline set by the Ministry of Environment, Forests and Climate, by setting up a transformer near their project office. The construction of the dam has been on the anvil since the 90s, and has been “on hold”, thanks to the efforts of multiple environmental groups.

Athirappilly Falls, which stand approximately 80-feet tall and 330-feet wide, is on the west-flowing Chalakudy river. The river originates in the Western Ghats and flows 145 km to meet the Arabian Sea. The river flows placidly for a good while but becomes turbulent near Athirappilly where it surges around big rocks and cascades into separate roaring falls.

The waterfalls are surrounded by dense jungles, which are home to many endangered and endemic species of flora and fauna. The area has been declared as an “important bird area” as four species of hornbills call it their home. The river also provides a habitat for several species of freshwater fishes, among them a few endemic.

As expected, the roads meander through thick, lush green equatorial vegetation alongside the river. Most vehicles stop en-route at the first viewing point, where one can get a wide-angle view of the waterfalls. In fact, all pictures of the falls treat the viewer to this iconic spot where the white foam of the waterfalls is engulfed by the green of the jungle, interspersed by the ubiquitous palm.

Walk for the vista

A little further, a gentle two-km trek through thick bamboo clusters takes one to the top of the falls. Here, the eye meets the spectacular panorama of the gentle upstream, the dramatic gushing waterfalls, the subsequent turbulent river and the dark, rain-laden clouds.

The upstream of the river is a popular bathing spot, and a number of tourists enjoy the dip with Kerala’s tourism department having constructed separate changing rooms for men and women. Both young and old throng to this spot and soak in the natural beauty of the falls and the freshness of the river, apart from clicking selfies galore.

On the return trek, an innocuous board directs the visitor to the bottom of the falls. Popularly called ‘Baahubali Falls’ (Baahubali 1 was shot here), the path downward is narrow, steep, and can get a tad treacherous with the spray from the waterfall, but the captivating view on reaching there more than makes up for the challenge of the trek. In fact, the roar of the cascade, the misty spray of the falls ­— all surrounded in green — makes the place magical.

The trek is made brighter with colourful birds, swinging monkeys and ‘the occasional deer’.

Surprisingly, a large number of seniors enjoy the trekking challenge. On reaching the base of the falls, the welcoming spray from the waterfall is refreshing.

It’s said that the falls attract close to 70 lakh visitors annually, with the monsoons being the peak period. Part of the lure is the hype created by the film industry. Many movies have captured the grandeur of the falls, especially for songs. Director Mani Ratnam is particularly fond of this place and has almost fully shot Raavanan here, as also the song ‘Jiya Jale’ in Dil Se. The falls are beautiful on the silver screen and even more breathtaking in live panorama. Only wish that this grand spectacle be allowed to perpetually thrill generations to come.

A hanging bridge and a butterfly park are additional attractions that one should make time for, as also the close-by Vazhachal Rapids. We skipped the two theme parks Silver Storm and Dream World. The Tourism Promotion Council also organises a daily safari covering 40 km of thick rainforests, tea gardens and a wildlife watch, all in the vicinity of the waterfalls.