Spiritual retreat

Mystical

So, when in Lucknow recently, I waste no time to make a day trip to the legendary quarter, located only 130 km away from the Uttar Pradesh state capital.

Like Varanasi and Mathura, it’s a pilgrimage destination. Hindus refer to it as Ram Janmabhoomi, believing it to be the birthplace of Ramji, the central personality of Ramayana, and regarded as the seventh manifestation of Lord Vishnu.

“However, this holy land of vast religious and historic significance is not just confined to the Hindus, but equally attractive to Buddhists, Jains and Muslims as well,” tells Mangal, our guide, as we begin meandering through the streets of the laidback town soaked in sublime antiquity.

Ayodhya, during the pre-historic period, was known as Kosaldesa and bloomed as the hub of the Kosala kingdom which peaked in glory during the reign of King Dasharatha, the illustrious father of Ram. As a largely populated and fortified place, it was then respected as the most venerated settlement in India, legend claiming it to be built by God as the paradise on earth.

During later period of time, other religions too flowered on its landscape.

Myth says that Lord Buddha once lived there and according to the notes of 5th century Chinese monk Faxian, the locale was crowned with over 100 Buddhist monasteries. For Jains, the land is no less significant. Father of their religion, Rishabh Dev, was born there and their holy text stands testimony to the visit of Mahavira, Jainism’s last thirthankara, to this city. Bhagwan Swaminarayan, founder of the Swaminarayan cult of Hinduism, is said to have started his seven-year journey across India as a ‘Neelkanth’ from here.

Unfortunately, you see nothing from that glorious period, other than River Sarju on the banks of which Ayodhya flourished, survived, and still lives. However, I learn from omniscient Mangal about several mounds located outside the townscape, under which perhaps the ruins from that period are hiding and anxiously waiting to be explored by archaeologists.

With the arrival of the Mughals in the 16th century, Ayodhya lost its influence to Delhi and later to Lucknow and never regained it. 

The first Mughal Emperor, Babar, built a large Tughlaq-style mosque with three imposing domes in the early 16th century at a location which is believed by Hindus as the birthplace of Ram. Because of its significance to both Hindus and Muslims, the site became a matter of contention and hit newspaper headlines in December 1992 when it was demolished by a mob of Hindu activists. Several hundred died in the rioting that swept through India following the mosque’s destruction. Since then the situation has remained pretty tense in the pious terrain.

Rustic in nature

As a result of that the first thing that draws outsider attention after entering Ayodhya is the presence of large police and paramilitary forces at every corner of the shanty town. “It’s surely not to scare visitors, but to ensure safety for all,” assures Mangal as we head towards the disputed site, trundling through narrow alleyways, flanked on both sides with decrepit houses, many still having ornamentally decorated doors, shops displaying local handicrafts and photos of countless Hindu gods and goddesses and eateries selling hot samosas, jalebis and masala chai.

Ayodhya town, very rustic in character with limited facilities for tourists, is rife with temples and religious sites. Hopping from one to the other takes most of any visitor’s time.

Standing on elevated ground in the western part of the city is Ramkot, the central place of worship in Ayodhya. The place marks the site of Ram’s fort that once existed. It’s from here that he gave up his kingdom and left for a 14-year exile in the forest with his three brothers and wife Sita.

Quiet and carefree on any ordinary day, the domain becomes alive during Ramnavami when thousands of worshippers arrive to celebrate the birthday of Ram with pomp and grandeur. “This sleepy town then throbs with energy that lingers for almost a month,” adds Mangal. 

Hanuman Garhi, where Lord Hanuman is said to have lived during Ram’s time, and Kanak Bhawan, said to have originally built by Queen Kaikeyi for Sita, and the ghats of River Sarju, revered equally as the ghats of River Ganga in Varanasi, are the other places that draw interest.

When entering Hanuman Garhi with hundred others, walking up the flight of 76 steps, I could only hear Jai Ramji Ki, Jai Hanuman Ji Ki slogans from ardent followers.

FACT FILE

* Getting there: Ayodhya is only 3 hours by road from Lucknow which is connected by rail and air to all major Indian cities.

* Staying there: Other than a Uttar Pradesh Government Tourist Lodge, there are no suitable places to spend the night there, so it’s best to make a day-trip from Lucknow where hotels and guest houses to suit every budget are available. The La Place Sarovar Portico Hotel (www.sarovarhotels.com) at city centre is a good option.

For more info, visit www.up-tourism.com