A bowl full of tradition

RICE TREAT

No other delicacy is available in such a variety of styles. If you have a fetish for slow-cooked, well-marinated biryani, probably ‘Shivaji’s Biryani Stall’ in Jayanagar 8th Block is where you need to head.

The restaurant is a dingy establishment with smoky interiors. The two-room restaurant does not carry any name board. But the local people call it the Donne Biryani Hotel. The popularity can be attributed to its well-cooked Maratha-style Donne Biryani steamed over coal, served in a donne or a bowl made of dried banana fibre, and the delectable taste it offers.

Mannaji Rao, a Maharashtrian, started this eatery near Avenue Road around 60 years ago. Now his grandson Rajiv and his brothers are successfully steering the family business. Along with biryani, the restaurant is also famous for its aromatic mutton leg soup, mutton chops and kheema. Biryani is served with traditional accompaniments like raitas and salad or gravy, papads and pickles. The salad includes onion, curd, cucumber and lemon wedges. A reasonable price tag, attached to the menu, is another plus point.
It is not a lavish establishment with opulent furniture. And it is very crowded.

But it’s when you tuck in to the food, that the pleasure begins.

Customers are least worried about the lack of space. Murali, who was seen relishing the food, had this to say, “I am a biryani buff and a regular at the ‘Shivaji’s’, solely because of the taste and quality. They have maintained a traditional style of cooking and the flavour has no comparisons. After having a belly full of biryani here, I make sure that I take the delicacy for my family too.”

Rama Reddy, working in a construction company, is another regular customer who has only praises for the food. “Coming from Hyderabad, biryani is not new for me. But I cherish the Donne Biryani made in Maratha style. Most of the time, I go for mutton biryani and mutton chops,” Reddy beams.

Lokesh of the hotel is proud of the food served. “Since our grandfather’s time, we have been serving Bangaloreans with tasty and traditional Donne Biryani. Cooking meat over coal steam is a challenging process as it requires meticulous attention to time and temperature to avoid overcooking or under-cooking of meat. Thankfully, we are able to prepare food in such a way that every morsel of rice retains the flavour of the mutton,” says Lokesh.