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Bum bags are back

While we’re still struggling to come to terms with this season’s 80s love affair, designers have already moved on. Next summer is all about a 90s revival: sportswear and grunge mixed with a massive shot of sex and glamour. Some of the trends seen on the catwalks over the last month are as easy to slip into as an old Nirvana T-shirt, but others will take a little more practice. Here’s our pick of the items you’ll need to indulge that retro look.

Kitten heels

After several seasons of stilettos and platforms, kitten heels have returned. It’s true that it isn’t the most flattering shape, but the kitten has had a makeover, as seen at Missoni with hippy ribbons and straps; meanwhile Marc Jacobs added feathers at Vuitton; and at Marni, the shoe took on an orthopaedic shape with a thick wooden platform sole. Best kept away from floral bias-cut dresses.

Bum bags

Yes, they strike fear into my heart too. But at Marc Jacobs, the pioneer of the 90s grunge movement, models sauntered down the catwalk wearing bum bags matched to their skirts and shorts. Worn slung low around the hips, they achieved an overall mood of sporty utilitarianism. Over at Louis Vuitton, also designed by Jacobs, the bum bag had taken a luxe turn. In embossed leather complete with tassels and extra pouches or with a fur tail these were oversized and teamed with huge afros.

Cycling shorts

Yes, really. It’s partly the new sporty vibe and partly a decency thing. Set to be next summer’s answer to leggings, the lycra knee-length short was seen on the most unlikely catwalks, from the short disco versions that peeped out from Armani’s cocktail dresses to baggier versions at Marni worn loose over stripy leggings, via Donna Karan, where they were worn under everything. As with leggings, they’re not meant to be worn alone. When you see how short and sheer everything is for next summer you’ll be begging for a pair.

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