Engineered to perfection

Fashion store

The flagship store of designer Abhishek Gupta is an ode to storytelling. Each garment in the spacious design studio in Defence Colony renders a historical tale using motifs that perfectly adorn the garment Ensembles stand out not only for distinct colour palette they offer, but also for the choice of embroideries and intricate detailing, the Delhi-based designer has employed in his pret and couture garments.

The absence of bling is conspicuous which turns the spotlight on key techniques — quilting, thread work, shadow work with dori, pintucks and appliques.

The designer feels that such engineering nuances are important to maintain when catering to the luxury market because consumers are aware and shouldn’t be taken for granted. “Every little detail in the garments has to be looked into with an uncompromising attitude,” Gupta tells Metrolife.

“We, as designers, take note of small details — like no motifs are being cut at the corner of the garment. How these motifs meet and how a story carries through has to be carefully looked into. Every millimetre has to be mapped, thought out and planned to let the design flow seamlessly,” he says.

Gupta has been in the industry for the past 15 years and after working with coutourier Rohit Bal, he started his own label. A NIFT alumnus, Gupta is known for paying his attention to cuts and structure , and loves to play with textures using traditional and modern techniques to create garments that are contemporary yet deeply rooted in Indian craft.

“Our entire inspiration comes from traditional architecture and historical places like the Taj Mahal. Also, I get extremely inspired by ornamentation of Mughal era and by the intricate designs on their shawls and carpets,” he says. “Personally, I love vintage and old textiles. So I wanted my garments to have vintage look. This is the reason why we use certain materials that represent old world charm,” he adds.

Gupta also pays attention to developing in-house techniques, which, he says, allows him to focus on quality and meet production deadlines. “We use dori work which looks exactly like chicken embroidery. This allows us to produce in-house, and we don’t have to chase expert karigars in Lucknow,” he says.

For all his garments — whether men or women — Gupta tries to innovate new techniques and textures to ensure precision. “We are a country of tailors. People think they can click a picture of a garment and replicate it. People come with a mindset of copying a design and then customising. So we (designers) have to make clothes that are not possible to replicate,” he says.

“And this can be achieved by paying attention to detail. Our client understands that they are paying for level of finesse and thought process that goes into a garment,”
he adds.

Apart from clothes, the store also has a “listening room” that gives a glimpse into Gupta’s parallel creative pursuits. “Many people don’t know that I am a sound engineer as well. I am a consultant and work with architects and direct clients, and those who want to install home theatre or create a music room,” he says.

“There are too many technologies available in the market and we help people make right choices. Music enriches our lives and we excel in setting up systems that help people connect at an emotional and intimate level,” he adds.