World on still water

Dal Lake is Kashmir’s most enduring symbol of life and reflection.
World on still water

Few lakes in the world can match the beauty and quiet mystery of Dal Lake, the shining heart of Srinagar in Jammu and Kashmir. Ringed by snow-tipped mountains and willow trees that dip into its mirror-still waters, the lake has been called many things — a city, a mirror, a world afloat. The lake has carried kingdoms, poets, and families across its rippling surface for centuries.

The word “Dal” itself means “lake” in Kashmiri, so when people say “Dal Lake,” they are really saying “Lake Lake.” Locals often smile at this tautology, yet the repetition feels right — for there are many Dals within Dal Lake. It is divided into several basins, each with its own character: Nigeen, Gagribal, Lokut Dal and Bod Dal. Together, they form a watery labyrinth so vast that from certain corners you cannot see the opposite shore.

For centuries, Dal Lake has been Srinagar’s soul. In the 14th century, Persian scholars and Sufi saints wrote about its beauty. Mughal emperors, especially Jahangir, fell under its spell and built gardens along its edges — Shalimar Bagh, Nishat Bagh and Chashme Shahi still bloom with terraced fountains, arched pavilions and roses that perfume the summer air. When Jahangir first looked out across the lake, legend says he declared, “If there is a paradise on Earth, it is here.”

The lake is also a floating village. Long before modern houseboats became a symbol of Kashmir, people here lived and worked entirely on water. They built homes, schools, shops and even vegetable gardens that drift softly with the wind. These floating gardens, called raadhs, are made of water plants and mud tied together like rafts. Farmers grow tomatoes, cucumbers and melons on them, using wooden shovels to steer through their aquatic farms. It is a sight that seems to belong to another time — a peaceful coexistence of humans and nature.

Dal Lake’s wooden houseboats, carved with intricate Kashmiri designs, began as a colonial workaround. In the 19th century, British visitors were forbidden by the Dogra rulers from owning land in Kashmir. To stay longer, they built homes on water. The first of these “floating mansions” appeared in the 1880s, each fitted with chandeliers, carpets, and verandas that opened to the lake. Over time, these boats became part of Srinagar’s identity. Even today, when the morning sun lights the water, their reflections make it look as if an entire city is floating between sky and earth.

Then there are the shikaras — slender, colourful wooden boats that glide silently through the water. Locals row them with effortless grace, steering passengers past lotus fields and waterfront markets. The shikara is both transport and tradition: children go to school in one, vendors sell saffron and flowers from another, and newlyweds ride across the lake at sunset as if crossing a dream. For many visitors, the rhythm of the oar against the lake’s skin becomes the sound of Kashmir itself.

Dal Lake also changes with the seasons. In summer, it glitters with pink lotus blooms and silver fish. In winter, when temperatures fall below freezing, the lake can harden into ice strong enough to hold skaters. Locals say that when Dal Lake freezes, the entire city seems to pause. 

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