The gateway of Lucknow

Heritage beat

Yet, it continues to revel in its magnificence and enthrall people from all over the country. The 60-feet-high Rumi Darwaza, which lies in close vicinity of the Bara Imambara, another grand monument reminding one of the nawabi era, is known as the ‘face of Lucknow’ and its gateway. An example of Indo-Roman architecture, the huge gate that once divided the walled city areas, was constructed in 1786 by the then nawab of Avadh, Asaf-ud-Daula, and cost rupees one crore, according to historians.

Rumi Gate is also known as the ‘Turkish Gate’ owing to its similarity to the gate in Constantinpole, historians say.

The story behind the construction of the imposing structure is quite interesting. The Avadh was hit by a severe famine in 1784 and people were dying of hunger. The nawab wanted to help people with money and food. Asaf-ud-Daula, who was the fourth ruler of Avadh, was famous for his charitable ways. The nawab could easily have given money and food to the needy, but people in those days had great self-respect and they did not think it proper to accept anything as alms and always preferred to work to earn their bread and butter, according to Avadh history.

The nawab then devised a unique way to carry out relief operations and help people. He decided to construct two huge structures. He started work on Bara Imambara and Rumi Darwaza only to extend financial help to people in a difficult time, it is said. The result was that as many as 22,000 people worked hard, day and night, to construct the two structures. It cost the exchequer rupees one crore at a time when one could get 30 kilograms of wheat for only one rupee.

Well-known Avadh historian Yogesh Praveen says that many people who belonged to the upper strata of society but were victims of famine, had also undertaken physical work in the construction of the gate. “These people used to work in the nights… may be they did not want to reveal that they were accepting the nawab’s money,” said Praveen, who has penned several books on the history of Avadh. He said that the structure was an example of Mughal and Rajput architecture. “There is also a mixture of Avadh architecture in it,” the historian, whose book on the rich culture of Avadh,  Lucknow Nama, has won the national award, said.

According to historians, the Rumi Darwaza was designed by Kifayt Ullah, who was the chief architect of Avadh, though a section of them dispute the claim. Praveen, however, says that it was indeed Kifayat Ullah who had designed the structure. “Kifayat Ullah had come to Lucknow from Delhi and was a great architect... he and the nawab were very good friends,” Praveen said and claimed that Kifayat Ullah was buried next to the grave of the nawab in Bara Imambara.

The foundation for Rumi Gate was laid in 1784 and it took two years to complete the construction work. Some historians also see a connection with Rome and maintain that the name might have been derived from there.

The imposing gateway had also attracted the attention of the then British rulers. According to history, a British reporter had found the stretch between  Rumi Darwaza and the Chattar Manzil, another famous historical monument at some distance, as the most beautiful.

Despite its height and hugeness, no wood or iron was used in the construction of the gate, according to experts. It has been made of lakhauri bricks with lime plaster and plaster moulding. The structure gives different looks when viewed from different directions. If viewed from the eastern side, it appears like a great Mehrab and from the west it gives an impression of a Rajput style palace, thus indicating a mix of Mughal and Rajput architecture.

The great Mehrab of the Darwaza was copied in many of the buildings built later on in Lucknow and elsewhere. King Mohammed Ali Shah copied it in constructing the gateways of the Hussainabad Imambara in the city.

Rumi Darwaza’s replicas could also be seen at the Nadwa-tul-Ulema, the well-known Islamic seminary in Lucknow and the famous tomb of Salar Masood Ghazi at Baharaich, about 200 km from Lucknow. Historians say that a huge lantern had been placed atop the Rumi Darwaza during the nawabi era in order to light the pathway.

Unfortunately, the imposing structure seems to be bearing the brunt of  modern civilisation. Cracks have begun to appear in the central arch of the three-arched monument. Though cracks started appearing several years ago, repair works have not yet been started. One of the cracks has widened in the recent days, demanding immediate attention.

Although the monument is included in the list of protected monuments, the plan to undertake repair works has been hit adversely by red tape and official apathy. The huge flow of vehicles through the gate may be the reason behind the cracks, say experts. The gate can no longer withstand the vibration caused by passing vehicles and experts had suggested that traffic should be diverted to save the structure. But, it could not be done as there was a pending litigation in this regard, say the officials.

The court has also stressed the need for saving the monument. Officials say that they are committed to protect the pristine monument at all costs and have assured that repair works would be started in the next few months and would be completed within the deadline.

Praveen says that the entire Avadh region is full of historical monuments and many of them are in a bad condition, requiring immediate attention. “It will be really sad if the structure suffers irreparable damage owing to the neglect of the authorities concerned,” he said.

The city would stand to lose its very face if something happened to this symbol of Avadh history.