Goodness wrapped in a leaf

The true aroma and flavours of South Canara cuisine lie in the usage of leaves that lend it its uniqueness, writes Shyamala Ganesh

ShyamalaGanesh

Patrode

Sri Krishna, Udupi is known as the venerable pilgrimage place and Krishna is called Anna Brahma as no pilgrim will go hungry when they visit the temple. For hundreds and thousands of people, food is cooked by Tulu-speaking Shivalli Brahmins who used to earlier cook for auspicious functions like marriages, house-warming etc. Later, this art spread from Udupi through restaurants/hotels far and wide. The pioneers in this business were Shri Kadandale Krishna Bhat of Woodlands Group of Hotels and Sri Kuttetoor Seetharam Achar of Dasaprakash Group of Hotels. The trend was followed by numerous other hoteliers.

South Canara cuisine in fact thrives on its unique usage of leaves in cooking. Two dishes that showcase Udupi cuisine to its optimum are Patrode, a signature dish and the sweet Arasina ele dose or turmeric leaf dosa. Patrode is a very popular and tempting delicacy across South Canara. It’s a rice-based dish with all tastes amalgamated in the batter and spread on Colocasia leaves/ Kesuvina Ele, rolled and steam cooked. Though the preparation is time-consuming, the hostess, on hearing about the arrival of the guest, will soak the rice and begin the rest of the preparation. Sometimes you may end up getting the same dish in many houses if you stay long enough and visit more houses.

Arasina ele dose or Turmeric Leaf dosa on the other hand is a sweet dish made of rice, jaggery and coconut. The rice batter is spread evenly on the turmeric leaf with coconut and jaggery filling. This too is steamed. This dish is prepared specially on Nagara Panchami day which is the first festival after Ugadi. This can be prepared anytime from June to October when turmeric leaves are easily available. And what better way than to eat the tasty, sumptuous and wholesome array of food items than on a banana leaf — Ele Oota. In fact, most dishes prepared in South Canara use leaves as cups or containers. Jackfruit leaf Kadubu and Pandanus leaf Kottige, apart from giving its unique aroma, also impart their medicinal properties. Other leaves that are used are turmeric leaves or Arasina ele or banana leaf.

Patrode

Ingredients

Rice: 2 cups

Grated coconut: 1-1 1⁄2 cups

Red Chillies: 10

Methi seeds: 1tsp

Coriander seeds: 3-4 tbs

Colocasia leaves: 10 -12

Tamarind: Big lime size

Jaggery: 4- 5 times of tamarind

Salt: 2 tsp / to taste

Method

Soak the rice and methi separately for 2-3 hours. Grind the rice, methi and coconut together. Add red chillies, coriander seeds and grind them together. Finally, add tamarind extract and jaggery and prepare the batter (thicker than pouring consistency). Wash the leaves properly and remove the prominent veins with a sharp knife. Place the bigger leaves on the back side facing up and apply the batter evenly. Place a smaller leaf on it and apply the batter in the same manner. Place 1-2 leaves over it and repeat the process. Now fold in, the top of the leaves first, towards the centre, followed by folding both the sides in, apply the batter on the folded sides and later roll the leaves, like you roll a mat. Place it in the steam cooker and steam for about 40- 45 minutes.

Turmeric leaf Dosa

Ingredients

Rice: 1 cup

Beaten rice: 2 tbs

Jaggery: 1 cup

Grated coconut: 1 cup

Turmeric leaves: 12

Salt: a little

Method

Soak the rice for about 4 hours. Grind with coconut by adding a little water.
When the batter is almost ready, add soaked and squeezed beaten rice with a little salt. For the coconut filling, grind the coconut with jaggery (for a little while).
Cook the ground coconut and jaggery in a kadai. When it becomes slightly thicker, let it cool. Apply the rice batter uniformly on the turmeric leaf and sprinkle the coconut mixture into half the leaf. Fold in the other half of the leaf. Steam it in the idli vessel. Take care to keep the leaves in a methodical way so that all the leaves get the steam evenly. Steam for about 45 minutes.

(Shyamala Ganesh is the author of Udupi on a Leaf: A Culinary Gift From A Father To Daughter published by Sapna Ink, an imprint of Sapna Book House (P) Ltd.)