Jewels in the crown

Going down memory lane, Mohona Kanjilal narrates how the culinary culture of erstwhile Kolkata has stood the test of time

In the case of some foods like Patishapta pitha, the regional essence of the dish and culinary practices did not change during the colonial era

A Taste of Time

Mohona Kanjilal

Bengal, which was an immensely wealthy region, particularly renowned throughout the world for its textile manufacturing industry, attracted the avarice of many ruling powers, including Britain. But it also cannot be denied that it was under colonial rule that Bengal, particularly Calcutta, turned into a cosmopolitan hub of immigrants. The city had become a thriving centre of trade and commerce and a melting pot of different cultures that brought about a diversity in its culinary culture that had never been seen before.

While writing on the food history of Kolkata, a discussion of its hospitality industry becomes important. The beginning of this industry in Kolkata can be traced to the advent of Europeans in the city who would reach India via the sea route. Despite the difficulties faced on the sea, the Europeans would be more anxious about where they would stay upon their arrival in the city. This was much before boarding houses and hotels had come up in Kolkata. They were dependant on the hospitality of those Europeans who were already residents in the city or would be compelled to stay in budge-rows that were moored at the river ghats till they found a permanent place for themselves.

In this scenario, the establishment of taverns in Bengal, which began in the seventeenth century, by some enterprising Europeans must have come as a boon to the weary travellers. These taverns, which admitted only the Whites, also made continental cuisine step out of the homes of the early European settlers and become commercially available for the first time. The taverns could be either of modest description or so splendid that they were frequented by the well-to-do. For example, Harmonic Tavern in Lal Bazar was the most exclusive in White Town. The best of British society gathered here and Mrs Warren Hastings was its patron. In contrast, there were the not-so-exclusive taverns in Dacres Lane and Khidderpore. From the 1800s, boarding houses, hotels and eateries were opened in the city by Europeans. Mrs Box and Mrs Annie Monk ruled the boarding house scene of Calcutta in those days. Their boarding houses were very exclusive and spread over White Town in areas like Middleton Row and Camac Street. It was Mrs Annie Monk’s heavily patronised boarding house complex on Chowringhee that was converted into an imposing hotel by the Armenian real estate baron Arratoon Stephen by the early twentieth century. He named it Grand Hotel after Colonel Grand whose mansion it had once been before Mrs Monk made a boarding house of it.

The difference in the quality of hotels was stark. Some were like Bashas or modest dwellings while some were so luxurious that one had to almost be a millionaire to sleep in their attics. The jewels in the crown were Spence’s Hotel, Great Eastern Hotel and Grand Hotel. These three hotels were the perfect definition of classy and luxurious living. Spence’s Hotel holds the distinction of being the first hotel to be established in the city. Set up in 1830 by John Spence, who originally hailed from Paisley in Scotland, it no longer exists today. Great Eastern Hotel, established in 1841 on Old Court House Street by the Englishman David Wilson, is now known as The LaLiT Great Eastern Kolkata while the Grand Hotel was finally taken over by hotelier Mohan Singh Oberoi and rechristened The Oberoi Grand.

In the taverns and boarding houses, occupancy was reserved for the white folks. But the scenario began to change with the establishment of hotels. Business compulsions induced proprietors to open the doors of their hotels to Indians as long as they could pay for their lodging and meals. Many European restaurants also appeared on the scene that catered to different categories of customers. But among this entire lot were two establishments that carved a niche for themselves — Federico Peliti and Firpo’s.

With the development of Park Street into a fashionable avenue in the twentieth century, upmarket restaurants specialising in continental cuisine came up along the stretch. But the boom in continental cuisine in Park Street happened, to a great extent, after Independence, when local restaurateurs began opening restaurants specialising in this fare. Skyroom and Blue Fox were the two post-Independence restaurants on Park Street that stood out for their fare.

Also, in the post-World War II period, the government had decided to liberalise the use of foreign exchange by the hospitality industry, which led to a surge in its entertainment activities. Flamenco, tango, rhumba and can-can dancers were signed up by hotels and restaurants. Cabarets, jazz and good food came to define Park Street. The atmosphere in the restaurants of this vibrant thoroughfare in the post-Independence era was further enlivened by the outstanding performances of legendary vocalists like Patricia Tarley, Pam Crain, Marie Sampson and Usha Uthup.

(The author has just published A Taste of Time: A Food History of Calcutta with Speaking Tiger Books.)