‘Kasavu’ all the way

Sahana Kulur visits Kuthampully, one of the villages where Kerala’s elegant white saris are made.

Onam is synonymous with people dressing up in traditional white and gold attire from Kerala. A journey on the Salem-Kochi Highway can take curious souls to Kuthampully, a village 50 km from Thrissur. Situated along the banks of Gayathripuzha and Bharathapuzha rivers, the village is one of the state’s three primary centres for the cherished white and gold ‘kasavu’ fabric, which has earned a distinguished Geographical Indication (GI) tag.

What is it

‘Kasavu’ refers to both the zari used and the technique of intricately weaving these metallic threads, often gold or silver, into the borders of ‘mundus’ or saris.

Originally, Kerala’s traditional attire centred around the ‘mundu’, a cloth draped from the waist downwards, both for men and women, often leaving the upper body bare. The garment was driven by Kerala’s tropical climate where cotton fabrics are favoured due to the absence of the silk culture as seen in neighbouring regions like Tamil Nadu and Karnataka.

The concept of covering women’s upper bodies was introduced with the arrival of colonial powers like the British during the 18th century. The shift led to the adoption of the ‘mundum neriyathum’, a two-part ensemble. ‘Mundu’ covered the lower body, while the ‘neriyathum’ (a white fabric adorned with golden borders measuring one inch in width) was draped over the shoulders and secured using a brooch or pin.

Raja Ravi Varma’s painting ‘Galaxy of Musicians’ features a single woman among eleven donning the ‘mundum neriyathum’, gracefully holding a veena. Similarly, depictions of the attire can be observed at Kochi’s Mattancherry Palace, where royal women are seen wearing just the ‘mundu’ while others wear it along with the ‘neriyathum’.

Today’s Kerala sari is crafted from the same fabric as the ‘mundu’.

Kasavu of Kuthampully

Five centuries ago, the Kochi royal family orchestrated the migration of the skilled Devanga community, originally from the Mysore state, to Kuthampully, assigning them the task of crafting textiles for the palace. The legacy of Kuthampully saris is upheld by the skilled Devanga community, originally from the Mysore state.

In today’s Kuthampully, low-rise concrete structures with hoardings of handloom textiles line the narrow road. Amid the village, the rhythmic beats of handloom machines can be heard. I learn that almost every weaver in the village specialises in either sari or ‘mundu’ making, and never both. Inside one such dwelling, Mani represents four generations of ‘kasavu’ weavers. His small house has a spinning wheel, a relic of his forebears. While Mani is weaving an off-white and gold sari on his wooden handloom, he speaks about the evolution of the jacquard loom’s mechanism.

“Computer-generated jacquard cards assist in weaving patterns, raising specific cords within the fabric’s warp. This intricate process has replicated manoeuvres and revolutionised textile production,” he says. Mani also says the influx of computer jacquard cards, Salem mill-made yarn, and Surat’s zari have aided the handloom production here.

With pride, Mani shows saris and outlines how saris across the three clusters in Kerala differ from each other. The hallmark of these ‘kasavu’ saris lies in the technique, which involves weaving the gold zari patterns directly into the fabric. The technique requires skill and precision, as the weavers meticulously bring together the gold threads into desired designs. It ensures that the zari work is an integral part of the sari, making it durable and long-lasting.

Mani’s 75-year-old father Muruga, who supervises his son’s works, says, “Traditionally, hand-spinning yarn was customary, but modern times have shifted towards mill-made yarn due to cost and scalability reasons. This hand-spun yarn follows an extensive pre-weaving ritual. After procurement, it undergoes a seven to eight-day immersion, with artisans rhythmically stamping it daily to enhance softness. Subsequently, artisans meticulously stretch and
arrange the yarn. As per tradition, this practice must occur between 4 and 7 am, a time believed to offer optimal conditions.”

Although the essence of the Kuthampully sari is just white and gold, these days Malayalis look for a hint of colour. “The shop owners observe the trend and season to place orders with weavers specifying the design and/or colour,” he says.

Distinct features

In Kerala, the Indian government has awarded the GI tag to three clusters: Balaramapuram in Thiruvananthapuram, Chendamangalam in Ernakulam, and Kuthampully in Thrissur.

The borders of ‘kasavu’ saris from Kuthampully feature zari work and designs can be seen on either side of the fabric. These intricate patterns on the saris are often inspired by nature, mythology, and religious symbols. Elephants, peacocks and Krishna are fast-moving motifs. The demand for detailed motifs is the highest during wedding seasons and it takes almost 40 days to weave such motifs, says Muruga.

Another weaver, who specialises in ‘mundu’ weaving, lives next to Mani’s house. His handloom machine is on the floor and operates a bit differently than Mani’s stand-alone handloom machine. 

The ‘mundus’ here come with only solid borders and vertical stripes. At times, the weavers incorporate traditional motifs along the horizontal and vertical strip. In Balaramapuram, silver thread plated in gold with meticulous thread counts like 120s along with elaborate motifs are seen on saris and ‘mundus’. The Chendamangalam cluster makes saris and ‘mundus’ with a subtle interplay of half-fine zari, coloured thread counts from 80s to 100s, and simple colours and motifs.

Wallet factor 

A Kuthampully ‘kasavu’ sari with simple circular geometric patterns cost Rs 3,500 at a weaver’s shop. The same is sold for about Rs 8,000 at showrooms in Thrissur.

(The author is a travel writer.)