<p>In India, three trees — kusum, ber and dhak — play host to a special insect. The trees allow this insect to rent (all gratis!) their branches so it can secrete a resinous and sticky pigment known as lac. Any guesses which insect is referred to here? It’s the laccifer lacca, commonly known as lac insect.<br /><br /></p>.<p>The scarlet-hued raw material, harvested from the branches, goes through a series of processes to become free of impurities, following which it is ready to be marketed as shellac. This refined version of lac is used in a number of industries — dyeing, wood polishing, varnishing, cosmetics and food industries. <br /><br />Lac is also importantly used as sealing wax, usually in government works: recall the maroon blob on registered letters, or reports of EVMs stored in strong rooms whose locks are covered with cloth and sealed with lac.<br /><br />Recognised terrain<br /><br />Lacquer in craft has held its own down the ages. The intricate workmanship of the Far East, particularly of Japan and China, has always been admired by people. In India, artisans have used lac to make pieces of personal use. The tribal belt of Koraput, Odisha, is known for its lac combs; Bihar makes lac jewellery; and Hyderabad, Gujarat and parts of Rajasthan mould the most popular lac-craft item: bangles. How are these hand adornments made? Let’s explore the craft...<br /><br />When you watch a bangle-maker, you’ll realise how rudimentary his technique is and yet what a sparkling result he achieves. Therein lies the beauty of the craft, which will be passed down many generations.<br /><br />Typically, the bangle-maker sits with a modified angithi (coal burner) in front of him. Among his other equipments is a stick with basic lac wound on it in conical shapes, cubes of coloured lac held on separate sticks, a steel glass with holes at the base, dozens of metal bangles and a few wooden tools. Various tinsel and glitter to adorn the bangles also sit in a corner.<br /><br />The process begins with the craftsperson warming the lac over medium heat of the coal burner until it becomes malleable. Almost simultaneously, sticks with colour cubes are also warmed. As soon as the colours become semi-molten, bits of it are immediately applied on the softened lac. <br /><br />The lac with colours on it is rolled into a long coil and cut off after it reaches the desired length. The process looks simple and is reminiscent of childhood play with plasticine. Yes, the bangle-maker does something similar, but he works within a time frame and has to be swift in his craft, else all he’ll be left with is hard resin.<br /><br />So adept is he that the coil he rolls by hand is of equal diameter everywhere. While the process of rolling is on, he drops a metal bangle on to the coals. As soon as the bangle heats up, his tongs effortlessly pick it up from the burning embers and immediately cover it with the rolled lac. He subtly presses together the two ends and gives the bangle its first look. <br /><br />Wooden tools come into play after this to smoothen the bangle. To give it a circular shape, the prepared lac bangle is slipped on to the steel glass and rolled to perfection. Then it’s immersed in a tub of water for it to harden and fished out a few moments later.<br /><br />Shiny add-ons<br /><br />If the bangle needs to be embellished with glass, sequins, crystals, semi-precious stones, it is done after the lac has been put in place. The embellishments are kept on a foil and heated. These are deftly picked up with pincers and stuck on to the bangle. As these are hot, they settle into the lac bangle and solidify. The entire process takes a few precise minutes and is magical to say the least.<br /><br />The lac bangles from Hyderabad are prized for their intricate decorations that lend immense glitter and gloss. So evolved is the process here that the bangles can be mistaken for being made of gold. The narrow street of Laad Bazaar in Hyderabad is the Mecca for lovers of lac bangles. Not only do the bangles have a large local clientele, but also a huge overseas market. The bangles from Rajasthan and Gujarat are relatively simpler in design, and their highlight is the interplay of lac colours.<br /><br />Lac craft is another example of mother nature’s unending bounties coupled with man’s quest for creation.<br /><br /></p>
<p>In India, three trees — kusum, ber and dhak — play host to a special insect. The trees allow this insect to rent (all gratis!) their branches so it can secrete a resinous and sticky pigment known as lac. Any guesses which insect is referred to here? It’s the laccifer lacca, commonly known as lac insect.<br /><br /></p>.<p>The scarlet-hued raw material, harvested from the branches, goes through a series of processes to become free of impurities, following which it is ready to be marketed as shellac. This refined version of lac is used in a number of industries — dyeing, wood polishing, varnishing, cosmetics and food industries. <br /><br />Lac is also importantly used as sealing wax, usually in government works: recall the maroon blob on registered letters, or reports of EVMs stored in strong rooms whose locks are covered with cloth and sealed with lac.<br /><br />Recognised terrain<br /><br />Lacquer in craft has held its own down the ages. The intricate workmanship of the Far East, particularly of Japan and China, has always been admired by people. In India, artisans have used lac to make pieces of personal use. The tribal belt of Koraput, Odisha, is known for its lac combs; Bihar makes lac jewellery; and Hyderabad, Gujarat and parts of Rajasthan mould the most popular lac-craft item: bangles. How are these hand adornments made? Let’s explore the craft...<br /><br />When you watch a bangle-maker, you’ll realise how rudimentary his technique is and yet what a sparkling result he achieves. Therein lies the beauty of the craft, which will be passed down many generations.<br /><br />Typically, the bangle-maker sits with a modified angithi (coal burner) in front of him. Among his other equipments is a stick with basic lac wound on it in conical shapes, cubes of coloured lac held on separate sticks, a steel glass with holes at the base, dozens of metal bangles and a few wooden tools. Various tinsel and glitter to adorn the bangles also sit in a corner.<br /><br />The process begins with the craftsperson warming the lac over medium heat of the coal burner until it becomes malleable. Almost simultaneously, sticks with colour cubes are also warmed. As soon as the colours become semi-molten, bits of it are immediately applied on the softened lac. <br /><br />The lac with colours on it is rolled into a long coil and cut off after it reaches the desired length. The process looks simple and is reminiscent of childhood play with plasticine. Yes, the bangle-maker does something similar, but he works within a time frame and has to be swift in his craft, else all he’ll be left with is hard resin.<br /><br />So adept is he that the coil he rolls by hand is of equal diameter everywhere. While the process of rolling is on, he drops a metal bangle on to the coals. As soon as the bangle heats up, his tongs effortlessly pick it up from the burning embers and immediately cover it with the rolled lac. He subtly presses together the two ends and gives the bangle its first look. <br /><br />Wooden tools come into play after this to smoothen the bangle. To give it a circular shape, the prepared lac bangle is slipped on to the steel glass and rolled to perfection. Then it’s immersed in a tub of water for it to harden and fished out a few moments later.<br /><br />Shiny add-ons<br /><br />If the bangle needs to be embellished with glass, sequins, crystals, semi-precious stones, it is done after the lac has been put in place. The embellishments are kept on a foil and heated. These are deftly picked up with pincers and stuck on to the bangle. As these are hot, they settle into the lac bangle and solidify. The entire process takes a few precise minutes and is magical to say the least.<br /><br />The lac bangles from Hyderabad are prized for their intricate decorations that lend immense glitter and gloss. So evolved is the process here that the bangles can be mistaken for being made of gold. The narrow street of Laad Bazaar in Hyderabad is the Mecca for lovers of lac bangles. Not only do the bangles have a large local clientele, but also a huge overseas market. The bangles from Rajasthan and Gujarat are relatively simpler in design, and their highlight is the interplay of lac colours.<br /><br />Lac craft is another example of mother nature’s unending bounties coupled with man’s quest for creation.<br /><br /></p>
