Soaking in Sikkim’s mythical & mystical bounty

Sikkim unfolds like a dream amidst mountains, monasteries, and ruins, offering glimpses of Kanchenjunga’s magnificence, writes Stanley Carvalho

On our first morning in Gangtok, she didn’t show up although we woke up early to get a glimpse of the beauty. But on the second day, as if to make up for the previous day’s lapse, she appeared in all her beauty and splendour; sun-kissed, triangular pinks floating in the skies. She looked gorgeous.

The shutterbugs in us went click, click from our hotel room. It was truly, as tourist brochures scream ‘awe-inspiring’ to ogle the Kanchenjunga, the third-highest mountain range in the world.

Visiting Sikkim or Nepal and not catching sight of the Kanchenjunga is like returning from Agra without seeing the Taj Mahal. Given how cloudy and foggy some days can be, we felt blessed to see this much-vaunted mountain, considered sacred and revered by the people of Sikkim.

Friends told us the views from Pelling are uninterrupted and the best, but during our two-night stay in this chilly, hilly town, at a height of 7,200 feet, we caught sight of the peaks briefly as mist played spoilsport. Nor were we fortunate enough to reach the Nathula Pass, the India-China border at an elevation of 14,250 feet. Permission was declined due to inclement weather. Unfazed by our ill luck, we moved on to something equally beautiful that this ‘lost Kingdom’ is famous for, the monasteries. All over Sikkim, these ancient and colourful monasteries dot the hilly landscape. There are some 200 monasteries or Gompas in Sikkim that influence the cultural heritage and lifestyle of its people.

One cold morning, we drove about three kilometres from our hotel in Gangtok to the Enchey Monastery, sitting prettily atop a hill surrounded by natural beauty. This 19th-century monastery is dedicated to Guru Padmasambhava, the patron saint of Sikkim and features traditional Tibetan elements with colourful prayer flags adorning it. Monks in maroon robes scurry around even as devotees and tourists turn the prayer wheels as they walk or take in the stunning views all around.

In Pelling, 140 km away from Gangtok, we found ourselves at the second oldest monastery of Sikkim, the Pemayangtse which means ‘Perfect Sublime Lotus’. The 300-year-old, three-storeyed Buddhist monastery is architecturally rich, housing many statues of saints and Rinpoches (the precious one), antique idols and sculptures.

The doors and windows are painted in traditional Tibetan design and the walls of its main prayer hall are adorned with paintings. We learn that it is the most important monastery of the Nyingmapa order of Buddhism.

There was more beauty to explore. After mountains and monasteries, it wasn’t surprising that Sikkim also houses a bird sanctuary. The Sidkeong Tulku Bird Park in Pelling, with elevated walkways and landscaped gardens looks like a fairyland but birdwatching meant seeing a handful of caged birds — Parakeets, Pheasants, Bulbuls, Flycatchers and some others — alongside noisy tourists clicking selfies.

A bit crestfallen, we wondered if it was worth making a nearly two-kilometre uphill trek from the bird park to see the famed Rabdentse ruins. “There’s nothing much up there, the climb is demanding, and it could rain.” Undeterred by those comments, we ventured forth.

After all, the heritage monument has been declared national importance by the Archaeological Survey of India. Why miss out on a slice of history in the mountains? Rabdentse became the second capital of Sikkim’s Chogyal dynasty from 1640 to 1814 after Yuksom, the first capital. Rabdentse was destroyed by the invading Gorkha army and what remains today are the ruins of the palace and just a few Chortens (stupas).

The jungle hike is about two kilometres through a winding, narrow pathway with moist soil below covered with fallen, dry leaves. On either side are tall trees providing some shade, making the trek easier.

Nonetheless, fatigue soon takes hold and with no sight of the destination, we impetuously ask returning tourists how much further are the ruins. “Keep going, just a little more” they tell us with a hint of amusement. After about 40 minutes, spurred on by the signboards but weak-legged and weary, we finally reach the gates and the steps leading up to the ruins. We take a breather and brace ourselves for some breathtaking views we were assured of. In less than three minutes we are, at 6,800 feet, literally on top of the world — the site of the Rabdentse ruins with the mighty Himalayas on one side and the deep Pelling valley on the other. The grassy lawns and flowering plants are eye-pleasing as we walk towards the ruins of the palace, breathing the intoxicatingly crisp mountain air. What was once a sprawling palace complex with a courtyard in the 1700s is today simply empty rooms with chunky walls and pillars of age-old stones without roofs. Some rooms are at an elevation with doorless openings. These stone walls have been silent witnesses to all the interesting and intriguing happenings in the palace. If only they could speak!

Among the ruins are also the three Chortens where the royal family used to offer prayers to their deities. Further up, is a single Chorten in a semi-ruined state. The ruins by themselves look pretty drab but yet there’s something uniquely appealing about them standing against the backdrop of the Himalayas.

Aside from seeing the historically significant ruins, there’s precious little that one can do other than drinking in the natural beauty all around or meditating in silence, breathing the fresh mountain air and clicking photographs for posterity. The well-maintained site is also part of the Buddhist pilgrimage circuit.

Sikkim’s beauty is not just its majestic mountains, magnificent monasteries, exotic flowers seen everywhere and quaint flag-festooned towns built on the inclines of hills. What impresses one all through is the cleanliness and the warmth of its friendly people, firmly bonded to their antique customs and traditions. It is also India’s first fully organic state and not surprisingly, has been ranked consistently among the top cleanest cities in our country with spit-free and litter-free roads. Even the side and back alleys of the city are admirably without trash.

Clean and happy living in the lap of nature. Truly a sign of spiritual purity and goodness.