Stoked by art

The Republic of Ireland and Northern Ireland are a treasure trove of art and culture with renowned writers, disarming buskers, artists’ studios and museums aplenty, writes aruna Chandaraju.

I n a country that has harp as its national emblem, it is easy to understand that there will be a wealth of art and culture. The Republic of Ireland (ROI) is probably the only country in the world that has a musical instrument as its heraldic emblem. The symbol or coat of arms of the country is depicted as a gold harp with strings of silver set against a rich blue background. The image of the harp is very pervasive in the ROI. Passports, coins, many official documents like tax-demands and official seals of the ROI carry this image. Even the police service has incorporated it into its own emblem, as have a few famous Irish private companies.

Irish art and culture have seen a variety of influences over the centuries and hence are not a homogenous entity. That is perhaps true of many countries, and certainly of India itself. There are significant differences in culture between various groups — religious communities (the chief ones are Protestants and Catholics), between the Irish-speaking people and those who speak English etc.

Art evolution

The beginnings of Irish art go back to the early carvings found at sites such as Newgrange (Stone Age) and are later traced through Bronze-Age artefacts and their ornamental gold objects and illuminated manuscripts and religious carvings of the medieval period. Then there is Celtic art of which an unbroken heritage has been found to exist from the late Iron Age through to the Roman period.

One can see the influence of Romanesque art too. Later periods show different indigenous schools of painting and the great literary traditions of the land that has produced many Noble laureates. At the prehistoric Newgrange Monument (traced to 3,200 BC), there is a large circular mound that has a narrow and low stone passageway leading to chambers inside. The mound is ringed by kerbstones engraved with artwork. Interestingly, its construction aligns it with the rising sun so that sunlight floods the chamber for a few days around winter solstice. This amazing spectacle is recreated with artificial light for tourists who arrive during other seasons.

Paintings, sculptures, knit-wear, needlework, wooden and glass artefacts, porcelain-ware, stained-glass paintings; there are innumerable beautiful Irish art and craft throughout the country. The houses, especially in the countryside, are among the prettiest in the world, and the way flowers and greenery are used around the house — at windows and over doors to enhance the appearance of the dwelling — are remarkable.

Many commercial establishments too present a riot of colours in flower beds. Urban areas are dotted with interesting statues, and Dublin, for example, has a range of statues that form a significant feature of the cityscape, and many of them have nicknames too. Ireland has made a great contribution to literature. Though there are many talented writers in Irish, the best-known ones are in English and include Jonathan Swift, Oscar Wilde, James Joyce, besides Nobel Laureates in literature like George Bernard Shaw, William Butler Yeats, Samuel Beckett — all familiar to students and lovers of English literature in India — and also Seamus Heaney.

Encouraging artistes

The ROI has an arts council that has been working to improve infrastructure and professionalism in venues for artistic performances. Interestingly, the government also has in place a unique tax break for creative artistes — writers, composers and visual artists — to encourage them to remain in Ireland and not emigrate.

Even in the neighbouring Northern Ireland, part of the United Kingdom, art traditions have a long and significant history. About one century ago, Northern Ireland was a significant centre for manufacturing and shipbuilding, and known for its creative design.
It is easy to get glimpses of the region’s cultural heritage from various art galleries, museums, artists’ studios, crafts villages, murals and showrooms that retail locally made crafts. There are products of the region in a wide range — linen, pottery, rugs, capes, throws, scarves, jackets, candles, crios (colourful handwoven woollen belts), harps, lacework items, ceramic artefacts etc. Murals and aesthetic graffiti are in plenty in Belfast and Londonderry, including a few revolution-related images.

If one doesn’t have much time but wants to get a taste of the region’s cultural history and contemporary art, there is museum-hopping. There is Belfast Exposed, Naughton Gallery, Golden Threads Gallery, Ulster Museum, which has a wide range of exhibits, the much-visited Titanic’s Docks and Pumphouse, Red Barn Gallery etc.

Besides, there are many historic houses and castles full of splendid furniture and artefacts. Many of the well-known churches have striking architecture, and within them stained-glass paintings, statues and religious artefacts are charming. Another option is the Crafts Village at Londonderry. For trendy boutiques with contemporary crafts and clothes, there is Lisburn Road in Belfast.

Just walking down the street gives one a taste of the region’s rich musical traditions. Street musicians are present across Belfast, Londonderry and the ROI. They fill the air with sweet music, and on a happy note, they receive due encouragement from the passersby in the form of applause and monetary contributions.