Beyond the ruins: The forgotten capitals of Karnataka’s Deccan

A couple of months ago, I visited Hemavathi, just across the Karnataka border in Andhra Pradesh, once the capital of the Nolamba dynasty. By the time I arrived, the midday sun was harsh. I stood before a temple complex with a neat yard dotted with Shivalingas and Nandis. A small stream of devotees was entering the temple, but there was not another tourist in sight.

Hemavathi is not alone; other lesser-known capitals near Bengaluru, such as Manne and Penukonda, also share this obscurity. 

Hemavathi

The Nolambas ruled parts of present-day Karnataka, Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu between the 8th and 11th centuries. The main draw in Hemavathi is a large temple complex featuring the Siddeswara and Doddeswara temples, along with a modest Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) museum.

A finely carved perforated stone window at the Doddeswara Temple in Hemavathi.

The yard outside the temple complex has several Shivalingas and Nandis. Art historian Andrew Cohen mentions in his book Temple Architecture and Sculpture of the Nolambas: Ninth-Tenth Centuries the inscriptions describing Pasupata Saivas (a sect of Shaiva tradition) in Henjeru (the old name for Hemavathi), who were patronised by the Nolamba kings. So the profusion of lingas isn't accidental.

What sets the Siddeswara temple apart is the presence of an idol of Bhairava in the sanctum, instead of the Shivalinga found in most Shiva temples. The idol is swathed in cloth and flowers, obscuring the details of the sculpture. Only the matted hair and a calm, meditative expression remain visible.

Within the complex stands the Doddeswara temple, built largely in granite. On the exterior wall are delicately carved, perforated windows in a softer schist. One such window shows Goddess Ganga on her vehicle, makara. Another depicts a couple, possibly the donor Marayya and his wife. A band of schist runs along the upper exterior, while a hall inside features columns of varying styles. 

The ASI Museum houses many of the sculptures that were previously found around the site. Information is limited, but the exhibits include some fine ceiling panels. One such panel depicts Shiva at the centre, surrounded by the Saptamatrikas and Ganesha. There are also figures of goddesses, some fragmentary, including one with flaming hair, a fierce expression and a string of skulls. 

Manyapura 

Around 40 km from Bengaluru, in Nelamangala taluk, lies Manyapura or Manne, once the capital of the Western Ganga dynasty. Long before the Hoysalas and the Chalukyas dominated the Deccan, the Western Gangas ruled parts of present-day Karnataka and Tamil Nadu between the 4th and 11th centuries. They shifted their capital to Manyapura in the 8th century from Kolar during the reign of Sripurusha, marking his victory over the Pallavas of Kanchipuram. 

The Kapileshwara Temple at Manne.

On entering Manne, it appears like any other town. A signboard in Kannada marks it as a capital of the Ganga dynasty. There are no ticket counters, guided tours, or souvenir shops here: only a handful of surviving religious structures.

The Kapileshwara temple, dedicated to Shiva, now in ruins, is said to have been built by Shri Vijaya, the general of the Ganga king Maarasimha. The entrance is guarded by a pair of Dwarapalakas, while the sides feature perforated windows with carvings of amorous couples and other figures, often interpreted as Yakshas and Yakshis. It also has a broken sculpture of Nandi inside.

Sri Vijaya Jinalaya in Manne.

Tightly packed between houses and a water tank is a ruined Jain temple. The temple’s high ceiling suggests it may have had two levels. Today, a sculpture of the Yaksha Dharanendra remains on the ceiling.

Near a dried-up lake stand sculptures of the Saptamatrikas, which are still worshipped. 

Penukonda

Penukonda represents a later phase of history. After the Battle of Talikota in 1565, when a coalition of Deccan sultanates defeated the Vijayanagara army, the capital was abandoned and the royal family fled to Penukonda in present-day Andhra Pradesh. It served as the empire’s capital for close to three decades.

Gagan Mahal in Penukonda.

Gagan Mahal is the principal monument here. Built between the 15th and 16th centuries, it has two levels, with arched openings to the east and a tower to the north. Its stucco-coated walls and high ceilings keep the interior relatively cool in summer, while the arcaded rooms suggest both ceremonial and private use. Legend also links the site to a court dancer named Gangamma. 

The tower has projecting jharokas overlooking the nearby temples. The Ramaswamy temple features reliefs from the Ramayana and Krishna legends, while a nearby stepwell is adorned with animal carvings. The Vishwanatha temple houses a Narmada linga while images of Minanatha, one of the gurus of the Natha Sampradaya, figures on its outer walls. The Natha Sampradaya were a medieval Shaivite sect associated with Hatha yogic traditions. 

Penukonda, today, has another unexpected attraction: Korean restaurants, thanks to an automobile factory with a community of Korean engineers. The combination of Vijayanagara-era temples and Korean ‘Bibimbap’ seems jarring, but perhaps Penukonda has always been a place of reinvention.  

Hemavathi, Manne and Penukonda lie off the main tourist circuit, yet reflect the diverse architectural landscape of the Deccan. While the crowds gather at Hampi, the more compelling questions lie here.