On the trail day by day

Come weekend, you will see hordes of young people with backpacks, karrimats (sleeping mats) and caps thronging the city bus station on an outing to escape the grinding routine of the week that has gone by.

These are the groups of youngsters   heading for the hills or simply going on a trek, bound on an overnight journey to some point or town in the hills of Western Ghats from where the adventure would begin. Not until a few years ago was trekking looked at as a hobby or a pastime. It was something only the daring would undertake and it would often entail physical exhaustion or an injury or both. People had their own apprehensions about embarking on this kind of adventure.

But the times have changed. In recent times as the inclination for a pastime shifted from mere entertainment to adventure-based activities, the sport of walking in the hills has taken over people, especially the youth, by storm. It is hard to find a youngster in the city who has not been on a trekking outing of some kind.

A good reason for this popularity is also the availability of various peaks, routes and trails along the mighty Western Ghat mountains that form a chain of hills in the west. We have tall peaks, dense forests, pristine rivers and waterfalls that are ideal for exploring on foot. Though there are hundreds of hills in the Western Ghats, a few peaks have taken the pride of place for being the most sought-after by trekkers.

This may be by virtue of scenic beauty, the degree of toughness of the trek or simply because of the easy logistics like availability of a shelter and food.
Mullaiangiri, rising to 6,331 ft above sea level is the highest peak in the State. But it is not the hardest to climb though, thanks to a winding road that takes one to almost half the distance.

Situated close to the coffee town of Chikmagalur, the trek to Mullaianagiri starts at a place called Sarpadari, meaning a snake like path, 15 kms away.  A small arch by the roadside is where a short flight of steps goes up initially to merge with a thin but easily discernible trail. As one gains altitude the gradient also steepens and climbing the open hillside without tree cover drains away the energy.

A cave and a shady spot under a tree almost near the top is the only resting point. An old simple temple of Shiva crowns the top. The temple priest offers basic sleeping place with mats and food for a nominal price. As such the trekkers need not bother with the tasks of pitching a tent or cooking food. The scenery at night is fabulous with lights of the towns below glittering like stars. Those who have time and stamina can extend the trek to Bababudangiri range or even further to reach Kemmannugundi over 3-4 days.

The highest peak of Shimoga district, Kodachadri is another hill that lures trekkers. There are two routes, one slightly tougher than the other from the Shimoga-Kollur road. The tougher route passes beside a beautiful waterfall called Hidlumane Falls. The trek though moderately hard takes about 5-6 hours to get to the top. Being the moolasthana, the original abode of Mookambika Devi of Kollur, it is also visited by groups of pilgrims, especially from Kerala. Here again the priest’s house caters to one’s needs. The real summit is much higher with an old mantapa with breathtaking views encompassing the backwaters of Linganamakki dam.

Kudremukh is a beautiful peak in the shape of a horse’s face close to Kalasa in Chikmagalur district. It is full of green rolling hills with dense patches of shola forests. Being a popular trek with astounding scenery, a perennial spring at the top and good chances of sighting a Gaur or a Sambar deer people used to flock here in droves. There were at least three exciting routes and camping was a luxury. But after the area was declared a national park, free movement and camping have since been stopped. A day visit to the peak is all one can do now with the permission from the department.

The toughest peak to climb in the State is probably the Kumara Parvatha near Kukke Subrahmanya. Sitting on the border with Kodagu district, it is also called Pushpagiri and rises to a height of 5,617 feet. It has a long trail beginning at Kukke Subrahmanya all the way to the top and a descent further beyond to Heggademane on Somwarpet side.

As such, the hill can be climbed from either direction but the facilities to eat and sleep are better on the Subrahmanya side, thanks to the house of  Mahalingeshwara Bhat at Girigadde.

The trek from the base takes 4-5 hours to reach Girigadde by lunchtime. This is also a lovely place with view points erected by forest department and romantic sunsets are a treat to watch. Staying overnight here makes it easier to climb the rest of the hill the next day. This trek is so popular that on any given holiday one can easily find some 40-50 trekkers here.

However, these hills, by virtue of the popularity, are being too frequently visited and that too by large groups. In the absence of a regulatory authority the impact of hordes of trekkers on the environment is quite high. The forests are the home of the wild animals besides a variety of trees and plants. The unabated human movement, the noise and the odour surely disturb the lifestyles of the animals indirectly.

That apart, some trekkers who may not be aware of the dos and dont’s are likely to leave behind trash and waste which has a negative effect on the environment. In fact, some campsites look like virtual garbage piles. Occasionally, a forest fire could also be caused. In addition to the possible damage to the environment there is often the risk of the trekkers themselves getting injured.

Being in the wilderness which is not regular terrain, the trekkers are more prone to slips and falls. They also face the risk of an attack by wild animals. We haven’t forgotten the three trekkers who were lost in Shiradi Ghat area in 2006 or the recent tragedy of a techie in Ombatthu Gudda hills. A trekker trampled by an elephant in Bannerghatta is just another example. It all bogs down to one point. Trekking is not just a picnic. It requires much more than a pair of hiking boots and a backpack. There are risks involved. One should be aware of what one is doing and also follow the dos and dont’s when in a forest.

Trekking being a popular adventure activity and a rage among the youth, it cannot be stopped altogether. It need not be. But regulating the flow of trekkers in the mountains will help to a great extent. Instead of too many visiting the same hill newer options for trekking could be looked at. We have quite a few hills and trails that could be explored so that the impact on the same trails over and again is reduced considerably. This does not, however, mean that the newer routes are there to take the onslaught.

A disciplined approach to trekking is what is needed. Smaller groups are better. The team members have to be aware of their responsibility with regard to camping, not polluting the water sources and bringing back from the mountains whatever they had taken along. As most forests are within the confines of national parks and wildlife sanctuaries, proper permission from the authorities concerned has to be taken invariably. And whenever necessary the services of forest personnel to accompany as guides should also be sought.

This is where the forest department’s assistance could be taken(where? here i feel something’s missing). The department has identified many trails in the jungles where trekkers would be allowed. A guide or two would accompany a group and the forest rest houses or Anti Poaching Camps would be used for a stay overnight.
Anshi nature camp maintained by the forest department near Dandeli is a beautiful camp with tents and a canteen.

There are several treks that can be done from here. One of them is the Kadra Viewpoint Trek. It needs a whole day to trek, visiting a few tribal families on the way. At the top you will be rewarded with a sweeping view of the lovely Kadra reservoir. A slippery trail going down through dense jungle leads to the reservoir itself.

Another charming trekking destination is the Moor Rashi Betta in the Sampaje forests between Madikeri and Sulya. Climbing from Sampaje the route descends to Haadikal on the other side near Kukke Subrahmanya. Much north, in Belgaum district, is an exciting trail to Bhimgad. The trail passes through the Jamboti forests of Khanapur taluk. The ruins of a fort, said to be built by Shivaji, takes one back to the bygone days.

These are just a few. There are many more. But all these treks entail permission from the forest department and a guide to accompany. Will it not be a safer way to trek while exploring new trails with a bit of care for the forests we love?