The majestic necropolis at Karnataka's Ashtur

About 10 km from Bidar city lies Ashtur, a village that houses the tombs of several rulers of the Bahmani Sultanate, which ruled the Deccan region during the 15th and 16th centuries.

As one travels from Bidar towards Ashtur, massive mausoleums begin to appear along the approach road to the village. Standing in a row near the Bidar fort, these structures resemble the world-famous Gol Gumbaz of Vijayapura. 

With their thoughtful design and striking Indo-Islamic architecture, some of these tombs feature tile decorations and inscriptions that record the details of the rulers, along with verses from the Quran and Persian poetry. 

The majestic necropolis has also served as a favourite spot for photography and as a location for film shoots.

Amid the necropolis stands the mausoleum of Alauddin II Ahmad Shah, known for promoting the famous Bidariware craft. He was the son of Ahmad Shah al-Wali, the ruler who shifted the capital from Kalaburagi to Bidar. It was also during the period of Alauddin II that noted scholar and administrator Mahmud Gawan arrived in Bidar. Under his influence, the region saw notable progress in education, literature and administration.

Among the Bahmani rulers, Humayun was regarded as particularly ruthless. He was the third ruler of Bidar, and his mausoleum in Ashtur is partially damaged by lightning.

Beside it stands the tomb of Humayun’s wife Nargis Begum, known as Malika-i-Jahan or Queen of the World. She played an active role in administrative affairs. Before his death, Humayun had formed a regency council of three members, including Nargis Begum. When their son Nizam Shah ascended the throne at the age of eight, she effectively managed the administration.

When Nizam Shah was 11, his marriage was arranged. However, during the wedding celebrations, the young ruler passed away, turning the festivities into mourning. Later, Nargis Begum installed her second son, Muhammad Shah III, on the throne and continued overseeing governance. The tomb of Muhammad Shah III is also located in the same complex.

In all, the funerary complex houses the tombs of eight rulers, along with those of several queens and other members of the royal family. However, none matches the grandeur of the tomb of Ahmad Shah al-Wali.

Beautiful writings, reflecting an interface of two cultures, can be found at the dargah of Ahmed Shah Wali. His memorial is regarded by Hindus as Allamprabhu’s temple and by Muslims as the Wali Dargah and is home to a rare form of shared devotion. It has been adorned with graceful lines of poetry of Nimatullah, a Sufi poet, engraved in gold and other colours. 

The mausoleum of Ahmad Shah al-Wali at Ashtur. 

Sight of neglect

Today, however, the site suffers from a lack of maintenance. Neither the Archaeological Survey of India nor the district administration has taken effective measures to develop the area or provide adequate facilities for visitors. Bushes have grown around the monuments, and there are no guides to explain their historical significance.

Every year, the birth anniversary of Ahmad Shah aI-Wali is celebrated as Sandal Sharif (fair) at Ashtur. This year, the 609th Sandal Sharif Urs began at the dargah of Hazrat Sultan Ahmad Shah Wali in the village on March 5 and will continue until March 15 with various religious programmes.

On his birth anniversary day, the Sandal Sharif ceremony is held at the tomb. The tomb is cleaned with rose water and decorated with floral chadars, followed by devotional recitations.