Pune-based Giripremi team completes alpine-style ascent of Friendship Peak

Mumbai: At a time when commercial expeditions and guided climbs are increasingly common in the Himalayas, a team of Giripremi mountaineers successfully completed an alpine-style ascent of Friendship Peak (5,289 metres) in Himachal Pradesh, reaffirming the enduring values of self-reliance, technical competence and ethical mountaineering.

The expedition, undertaken in the Pir Panjal Range of the Western Himalaya, reached the summit on May 24. 

The summit team comprised veteran mountaineer Krishna Dhokale, who has previously climbed Mount Everest and Mount Kanchenjunga, and mountaineer Yogesh Kokre, with support from team member Shravan Kumar.

What distinguishes the climb is its adherence to the alpine style of mountaineering, widely regarded as one of the purest and most demanding forms of climbing. Unlike conventional expedition-style ascents that rely on multiple camps, fixed ropes and extensive logistical support, alpine-style climbing emphasises lightweight equipment, minimal support, rapid movement and complete self-sufficiency on the mountain.

Mountaineering experts regard alpine-style ascents as a true test of a climber's technical skills, endurance, judgement and ability to manage risk in challenging environments. The approach also reduces the environmental footprint on fragile mountain ecosystems by limiting equipment, waste and infrastructure on the route.

Located above the Solang Valley near Manali, Friendship Peak is among the most sought-after training and climbing objectives in the Pir Panjal Range. Although considered accessible compared to some of the higher Himalayan giants, the peak presents significant challenges through glacier travel, steep snow slopes, crevasse hazards and rapidly changing weather conditions.

The successful ascent reflects months of preparation, physical conditioning and route planning. Throughout the expedition, the team followed principles of responsible mountaineering, prioritising safety, environmental stewardship and respect for the mountain landscape.

The climb was undertaken under the guidance of veteran mountaineer Umesh Zirpe, Founder-Director of the Guardian Giripremi Institute of Mountaineering (GGIM) and President of the Akhil Maharashtra Giryarohan Mahasangh (AMGM). Drawing upon decades of Himalayan experience, Zirpe provided inputs on expedition planning, risk assessment and mountain safety.

The achievement also highlights Maharashtra's growing contribution to Indian mountaineering. Organisations such as Giripremi have played a significant role in developing a culture of technical climbing, wilderness skills and mountain conservation, producing climbers who have gone on to scale some of the world's highest peaks.

As interest in adventure tourism continues to grow across India, mountaineering leaders say there is an increasing need to promote ethical and environmentally responsible climbing practices. The Friendship Peak ascent serves as a reminder that mountaineering is not merely about reaching a summit but about the manner in which the climb is undertaken.

The successful expedition further reinforces Giripremi's commitment to nurturing skilled mountaineers through training, education and responsible exploration of the Himalayas while upholding the core values that define the sport.