<p>A typical summer day in Gangotri is defined by crowds — pilgrims rushing towards the Gangotri temple, taking a holy dip in the Bhagirathi river, and heading towards the hotels or the bus stand. The small pilgrimage town remains packed with devotees from far and wide.</p>.<p>However, winter tells a completely different story. The roads fall silent, the temple premises appear almost deserted, and vehicular movement becomes rare. Gangotri, once bustling with life, transforms into a quiet and frozen world, which is often harsh.</p>.<p>Gangotri is one of the most important Hindu pilgrimage centres in Uttarakhand. Located on the banks of the Bhagirathi — the river considered the origin of the Ganga — the valley’s charm was famously captured on screen by legendary filmmaker Raj Kapoor in his super hit film ‘Ram Teri Ganga Maili’. However, even he missed the chance to portray Gangotri’s winter beauty, as the shooting was completed in summer. </p>.<p>During winters, the population of Gangotri (Uttarkashi district) drops to fewer than 50 people. In the summer of 2025, it welcomed 8.5 lakh pilgrims. So, who stays behind? Government staff for security and patrolling, temple committee staff to safeguard the premises, forest personnel, and a few spiritual seekers or babas who come in search of solitude and meditation.</p>.<p>The priests of Gangotri migrate to Mukhwa and other nearby areas of <br>Uttarkashi. Hotel and restaurant owners shut down their establishments and return to their villages. Porters, many of whom are from Nepal, go back to their country. </p>.<p>This winter, Gangotri has witnessed snowfall three times — a heavy spell on January 23 and light spells on January 27 and February 2. With harsh cold prevailing from mid-December to the end of February, daily life becomes extremely difficult. Locals claim that climate change has altered the snowfall pattern in the valley. Earlier, snowfall would begin in October. Now it often arrives in January, and sometimes even as late as April. Their observations raise serious questions, and scientific studies should examine the long-term impact of climate change in Gangotri.</p>.<p>Glaciologist D P Dobhal says, “Earlier, Gangotri used to receive one to two spells of snowfall in October, followed by heavy spells in November and December. One or two spells of snowfall would also occur in January. Now, we are experiencing late snowfall. Even the frequency of snowfall has declined.” Dobhal is an acclaimed glaciologist and has recently retired from the Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology (Dehradun). </p>.<p>These days, the minimum temperature frequently drops below minus 15 degrees Celsius, while on clear, sunny days, the maximum may touch 20 degrees Celsius. Bright sunshine blesses the valley from around 10 am to 3 pm, but as evening approaches, cold weather tightens its grip. Suresh Semwal, secretary of the Gangotri Temple Committee, says, “We make elaborate arrangements for our staff’s stay in winter at Gangotri. Rations, logistics — everything is in place. We store additional supplies to provide free food and tea to occasional devotees who visit the temple during winter. We also go to the temple for routine monitoring.”</p>.<p>As winter arrives, the portals of the Gangotri temple are closed, and they remain closed for six months. Mukhwa village becomes the winter seat of Mother Ganga. Every year, the idol of Goddess Ganga is ceremonially shifted from Gangotri to the Mukhwa temple, about 25 km away, where daily prayers continue. Mukhwa gained national attention in 2025 when Prime Minister Narendra Modi visited the village to offer prayers.</p>.<p>The Uttarakhand government has been promoting winter pilgrimage to make the Char Dham circuit a year-round destination. The winter seats of Badrinath (Joshimath), Kedarnath (Ukhimath), Gangotri (Mukhwa), and Yamunotri (Kharsali) are being actively promoted. As a result, awareness about Mukhwa has grown, and 100-200 devotees now visit daily during winter. Earlier, the footfall in Mukhwa was minimal.</p>.<p><strong>Bharal spotting</strong></p>.<p>After snowfall, Gangotri resembles a fairytale. Snow-covered mountains cast a magical spell over the valley. Yet, with beauty comes hardship. Temperatures drop sharply, water pipelines freeze, and residents are forced to fetch water directly from the Bhagirathi river. The river water, flowing down from glaciers, is icy cold. Old-timer Pratap Panwar admits, “You need a lot of courage even to touch the chilled water of the majestically flowing Bhagirathi. Forget about mustering the courage to take a dip in it.”</p>.<p>Winter also brings rare opportunities to spot wildlife. A few birds remain in the snowbound Gangotri. Occasional sightings of the Himalayan monal are reported. <br>However, pigeons and crows are commonly seen in large numbers near human settlements, providing some lively company to the silent town.</p>.<p>With water sources frozen or buried under snow, wild animals like the Himalayan blue sheep (bharal) come closer to the temple area in search of water. Forester Rajbeer Rawat says, “We occasionally see snow leopards and brown bears from a long distance. But the Himalayan blue sheep are human-friendly and can come as close as <br>10 metres.”</p>.<p><strong>Walking through snow</strong></p>.<p>Gangotri is largely a commercial town with hotels and shops. Residences are few. Those employed in the local businesses are from nearby villages, and head back home at the end of the pilgrim season. </p>.<p>Houses are fitted with ‘bukharis’ (traditional room heaters), but the biggest struggle is drinking water. Even water stored in buckets and pitchers turns into ice. Water must be heated for every use — whether drinking, washing, or cooking. In many snowbound <br>areas, the concept of installing insulated water tanks is common. But, in Gangotri, plastic tanks are used to store water, which is done well before the start of winter season. Water is transported through buckets from the tank.</p>.<p>After snowfall, Gangotri often remains cut off from the outside world. If one must travel, the only option is to walk through snow-covered roads. It is exhausting, risky, and lonely. A government staffer said, “Recently I had to go to Dehradun from Gangotri. The roads were covered with snow. I started walking at 12 noon and arrived near Harsil by 5 pm. It was a 25 km walk, 6 km of which was through snow.”</p>.<p>Even on normal winter days, residents walk up to Bhaironghati (around 8 km) to find a vehicle belonging to the Border Roads Organisation (BRO), public works department, forest department, or army to reach Dharali, the nearest inhabited village. Whenever a vehicle unexpectedly arrives in Gangotri, people are tempted to quickly plan a trip to Dharali, Harsil, or Uttarkashi.</p>.<p>Public transport, mainly jeeps and buses, operate only during the pilgrimage season. </p>.<p>In the event of a health emergency, a patient is moved out of Gangotri via jeep, lorry, ambulance or helicopter. The nearest village is about 23 km away. As the snow typically covers a 5 km patch, it is not an insurmountable challenge. Often, army personnel and police officers offer their assistance.</p>.<p><strong>Adventure seekers</strong></p>.<p>Gangotri occasionally receives surprise visitors — adventure bikers. Negotiating slippery snow-covered roads, they experience the valley like an ‘Alice in Wonderland’ dream. Tilak Soni, owner of a tour company, says, “I have been conducting Gangotri winter bike expeditions since 2008. This time, I was unable to conduct one due to late snowfall, but I still plan to do it in the coming weeks. Bikers come to explore the hidden beauty of Gangotri and test their skills. Many use snow straps or chains on the wheels to maintain grip.”</p>.<p>Soni explains, “The bike skids on snow and tests the driving skills of the biker. Bikers enjoy the challenge. The snow usually covers a 5 km patch of road, so that stretch is where bikers have to be extra careful. We also train bikers to control bikes without snow straps and chains.”</p>.<p>Although Gangotri is connected by a motorable road, once the pilgrimage season ends, vehicle movement becomes extremely limited. Beyond Dharali, only vehicles of the army, temple committee, forest department, and district administration are seen. The BRO ensures the Uttarkashi-Gangotri highway remains functional throughout the year. Snow cutters are deployed to remove the snow and make the road functional.</p>.<p>Life in sub-zero temperatures becomes even harder due to frequent power cuts during storms and snowfall. When electricity fails, mobile connectivity is also disrupted. Although the BRO clears snow and restores road connectivity, the lack of traffic means travel depends heavily on luck. Most government departments follow a rotation system. For instance, staff of the Gangotri National Park are deployed for 10-day shifts, after which a new team replaces them. This continues until summer arrives and conditions become favourable. During the peak pilgrimage season, forest staff are deployed for longer periods.</p>.<p><strong>A time to rest</strong></p>.<p>After the hectic pilgrimage season, priests shift to Mukhwa or areas near Uttarkashi. During the summer months, they remain busy day and night, performing rituals and handling devotees. “There is a vast difference between staying in Gangotri for a few days and staying in Gangotri for six months without break. There is huge fluctuation in temperature. After bright sunshine, the night temperature drops to sub-zero. During the winter break, many priests travel to devotees’ homes across India to conduct prayers and rituals. They also present Ganga water to devotees,” says Rajnikant Semwal, a priest. The winter break also gives priests time to rest and prepare for the next season.</p>.<p>At the start of winter, hotel employees and shopkeepers also leave. Gangotri has around 150 hotels, lodges, restaurants, dhabas, ashrams, dharamshalas, and commercial establishments. Balam Dass, a resident of Harsil, explains, “As summer approaches, hotel owners go to Gangotri for renovation or repairs. During the pilgrimage season they don’t get time, so winter is used for this work.” By mid-March, activity slowly begins again as operators return for repair work and prepare for the new season. The Gangotri temple generally reopens in April or May. This year, it will reopen on April 19.</p>.<p><strong>Back in 1815</strong></p>.<p>Over the years, Gangotri has grown many folds, with numerous hotels and commercial establishments coming up. When Scottish travel writer and artist James Baillie Fraser visited Gangotri in 1815, he noted very limited infrastructure. In his book ‘Journal of a Tour Through Part of the Snowy Range of the Himala Mountains’, he wrote, “The whole is surrounded by a wall built of unhewn stone and lime, and the space this contains is paved with flat stones. In this space too there is a comfortable but small house for the residence of the Brahmins who come to officiate. Without the enclosure there are two or three sheds constructed of wood, called Dhurmsallahs, built for the accommodation of pilgrims who resort here; and there are many caves around formed by overhanging stones, which yield a shelter to those who cannot find accommodation in the sheds.”</p>.<p>Fraser was the first ever European to reach Gangotri. Even today, some babas stay in caves around Gangotri, while others stay in ashrams and dharamshalas. Surya Prakash, a temple committee member who stays in Gangotri throughout the year, says, “In winter, complete silence exists and provides the perfect atmosphere for long meditation. During the day, when the sun is bright, babas and others gather near the temple and play carrom board. It is the biggest social event in Gangotri during winter. Cricket is not possible because of snow, and gathering enough players in such cold weather is nearly impossible.”</p>.<p>Gangotri in winter is silent, harsh, and unforgiving — but at the same time, it is magical. It offers a rare glimpse into a life that survives at sub-zero temperatures, where nature dominates, and the human presence feels small, fragile, yet determined.</p>
<p>A typical summer day in Gangotri is defined by crowds — pilgrims rushing towards the Gangotri temple, taking a holy dip in the Bhagirathi river, and heading towards the hotels or the bus stand. The small pilgrimage town remains packed with devotees from far and wide.</p>.<p>However, winter tells a completely different story. The roads fall silent, the temple premises appear almost deserted, and vehicular movement becomes rare. Gangotri, once bustling with life, transforms into a quiet and frozen world, which is often harsh.</p>.<p>Gangotri is one of the most important Hindu pilgrimage centres in Uttarakhand. Located on the banks of the Bhagirathi — the river considered the origin of the Ganga — the valley’s charm was famously captured on screen by legendary filmmaker Raj Kapoor in his super hit film ‘Ram Teri Ganga Maili’. However, even he missed the chance to portray Gangotri’s winter beauty, as the shooting was completed in summer. </p>.<p>During winters, the population of Gangotri (Uttarkashi district) drops to fewer than 50 people. In the summer of 2025, it welcomed 8.5 lakh pilgrims. So, who stays behind? Government staff for security and patrolling, temple committee staff to safeguard the premises, forest personnel, and a few spiritual seekers or babas who come in search of solitude and meditation.</p>.<p>The priests of Gangotri migrate to Mukhwa and other nearby areas of <br>Uttarkashi. Hotel and restaurant owners shut down their establishments and return to their villages. Porters, many of whom are from Nepal, go back to their country. </p>.<p>This winter, Gangotri has witnessed snowfall three times — a heavy spell on January 23 and light spells on January 27 and February 2. With harsh cold prevailing from mid-December to the end of February, daily life becomes extremely difficult. Locals claim that climate change has altered the snowfall pattern in the valley. Earlier, snowfall would begin in October. Now it often arrives in January, and sometimes even as late as April. Their observations raise serious questions, and scientific studies should examine the long-term impact of climate change in Gangotri.</p>.<p>Glaciologist D P Dobhal says, “Earlier, Gangotri used to receive one to two spells of snowfall in October, followed by heavy spells in November and December. One or two spells of snowfall would also occur in January. Now, we are experiencing late snowfall. Even the frequency of snowfall has declined.” Dobhal is an acclaimed glaciologist and has recently retired from the Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology (Dehradun). </p>.<p>These days, the minimum temperature frequently drops below minus 15 degrees Celsius, while on clear, sunny days, the maximum may touch 20 degrees Celsius. Bright sunshine blesses the valley from around 10 am to 3 pm, but as evening approaches, cold weather tightens its grip. Suresh Semwal, secretary of the Gangotri Temple Committee, says, “We make elaborate arrangements for our staff’s stay in winter at Gangotri. Rations, logistics — everything is in place. We store additional supplies to provide free food and tea to occasional devotees who visit the temple during winter. We also go to the temple for routine monitoring.”</p>.<p>As winter arrives, the portals of the Gangotri temple are closed, and they remain closed for six months. Mukhwa village becomes the winter seat of Mother Ganga. Every year, the idol of Goddess Ganga is ceremonially shifted from Gangotri to the Mukhwa temple, about 25 km away, where daily prayers continue. Mukhwa gained national attention in 2025 when Prime Minister Narendra Modi visited the village to offer prayers.</p>.<p>The Uttarakhand government has been promoting winter pilgrimage to make the Char Dham circuit a year-round destination. The winter seats of Badrinath (Joshimath), Kedarnath (Ukhimath), Gangotri (Mukhwa), and Yamunotri (Kharsali) are being actively promoted. As a result, awareness about Mukhwa has grown, and 100-200 devotees now visit daily during winter. Earlier, the footfall in Mukhwa was minimal.</p>.<p><strong>Bharal spotting</strong></p>.<p>After snowfall, Gangotri resembles a fairytale. Snow-covered mountains cast a magical spell over the valley. Yet, with beauty comes hardship. Temperatures drop sharply, water pipelines freeze, and residents are forced to fetch water directly from the Bhagirathi river. The river water, flowing down from glaciers, is icy cold. Old-timer Pratap Panwar admits, “You need a lot of courage even to touch the chilled water of the majestically flowing Bhagirathi. Forget about mustering the courage to take a dip in it.”</p>.<p>Winter also brings rare opportunities to spot wildlife. A few birds remain in the snowbound Gangotri. Occasional sightings of the Himalayan monal are reported. <br>However, pigeons and crows are commonly seen in large numbers near human settlements, providing some lively company to the silent town.</p>.<p>With water sources frozen or buried under snow, wild animals like the Himalayan blue sheep (bharal) come closer to the temple area in search of water. Forester Rajbeer Rawat says, “We occasionally see snow leopards and brown bears from a long distance. But the Himalayan blue sheep are human-friendly and can come as close as <br>10 metres.”</p>.<p><strong>Walking through snow</strong></p>.<p>Gangotri is largely a commercial town with hotels and shops. Residences are few. Those employed in the local businesses are from nearby villages, and head back home at the end of the pilgrim season. </p>.<p>Houses are fitted with ‘bukharis’ (traditional room heaters), but the biggest struggle is drinking water. Even water stored in buckets and pitchers turns into ice. Water must be heated for every use — whether drinking, washing, or cooking. In many snowbound <br>areas, the concept of installing insulated water tanks is common. But, in Gangotri, plastic tanks are used to store water, which is done well before the start of winter season. Water is transported through buckets from the tank.</p>.<p>After snowfall, Gangotri often remains cut off from the outside world. If one must travel, the only option is to walk through snow-covered roads. It is exhausting, risky, and lonely. A government staffer said, “Recently I had to go to Dehradun from Gangotri. The roads were covered with snow. I started walking at 12 noon and arrived near Harsil by 5 pm. It was a 25 km walk, 6 km of which was through snow.”</p>.<p>Even on normal winter days, residents walk up to Bhaironghati (around 8 km) to find a vehicle belonging to the Border Roads Organisation (BRO), public works department, forest department, or army to reach Dharali, the nearest inhabited village. Whenever a vehicle unexpectedly arrives in Gangotri, people are tempted to quickly plan a trip to Dharali, Harsil, or Uttarkashi.</p>.<p>Public transport, mainly jeeps and buses, operate only during the pilgrimage season. </p>.<p>In the event of a health emergency, a patient is moved out of Gangotri via jeep, lorry, ambulance or helicopter. The nearest village is about 23 km away. As the snow typically covers a 5 km patch, it is not an insurmountable challenge. Often, army personnel and police officers offer their assistance.</p>.<p><strong>Adventure seekers</strong></p>.<p>Gangotri occasionally receives surprise visitors — adventure bikers. Negotiating slippery snow-covered roads, they experience the valley like an ‘Alice in Wonderland’ dream. Tilak Soni, owner of a tour company, says, “I have been conducting Gangotri winter bike expeditions since 2008. This time, I was unable to conduct one due to late snowfall, but I still plan to do it in the coming weeks. Bikers come to explore the hidden beauty of Gangotri and test their skills. Many use snow straps or chains on the wheels to maintain grip.”</p>.<p>Soni explains, “The bike skids on snow and tests the driving skills of the biker. Bikers enjoy the challenge. The snow usually covers a 5 km patch of road, so that stretch is where bikers have to be extra careful. We also train bikers to control bikes without snow straps and chains.”</p>.<p>Although Gangotri is connected by a motorable road, once the pilgrimage season ends, vehicle movement becomes extremely limited. Beyond Dharali, only vehicles of the army, temple committee, forest department, and district administration are seen. The BRO ensures the Uttarkashi-Gangotri highway remains functional throughout the year. Snow cutters are deployed to remove the snow and make the road functional.</p>.<p>Life in sub-zero temperatures becomes even harder due to frequent power cuts during storms and snowfall. When electricity fails, mobile connectivity is also disrupted. Although the BRO clears snow and restores road connectivity, the lack of traffic means travel depends heavily on luck. Most government departments follow a rotation system. For instance, staff of the Gangotri National Park are deployed for 10-day shifts, after which a new team replaces them. This continues until summer arrives and conditions become favourable. During the peak pilgrimage season, forest staff are deployed for longer periods.</p>.<p><strong>A time to rest</strong></p>.<p>After the hectic pilgrimage season, priests shift to Mukhwa or areas near Uttarkashi. During the summer months, they remain busy day and night, performing rituals and handling devotees. “There is a vast difference between staying in Gangotri for a few days and staying in Gangotri for six months without break. There is huge fluctuation in temperature. After bright sunshine, the night temperature drops to sub-zero. During the winter break, many priests travel to devotees’ homes across India to conduct prayers and rituals. They also present Ganga water to devotees,” says Rajnikant Semwal, a priest. The winter break also gives priests time to rest and prepare for the next season.</p>.<p>At the start of winter, hotel employees and shopkeepers also leave. Gangotri has around 150 hotels, lodges, restaurants, dhabas, ashrams, dharamshalas, and commercial establishments. Balam Dass, a resident of Harsil, explains, “As summer approaches, hotel owners go to Gangotri for renovation or repairs. During the pilgrimage season they don’t get time, so winter is used for this work.” By mid-March, activity slowly begins again as operators return for repair work and prepare for the new season. The Gangotri temple generally reopens in April or May. This year, it will reopen on April 19.</p>.<p><strong>Back in 1815</strong></p>.<p>Over the years, Gangotri has grown many folds, with numerous hotels and commercial establishments coming up. When Scottish travel writer and artist James Baillie Fraser visited Gangotri in 1815, he noted very limited infrastructure. In his book ‘Journal of a Tour Through Part of the Snowy Range of the Himala Mountains’, he wrote, “The whole is surrounded by a wall built of unhewn stone and lime, and the space this contains is paved with flat stones. In this space too there is a comfortable but small house for the residence of the Brahmins who come to officiate. Without the enclosure there are two or three sheds constructed of wood, called Dhurmsallahs, built for the accommodation of pilgrims who resort here; and there are many caves around formed by overhanging stones, which yield a shelter to those who cannot find accommodation in the sheds.”</p>.<p>Fraser was the first ever European to reach Gangotri. Even today, some babas stay in caves around Gangotri, while others stay in ashrams and dharamshalas. Surya Prakash, a temple committee member who stays in Gangotri throughout the year, says, “In winter, complete silence exists and provides the perfect atmosphere for long meditation. During the day, when the sun is bright, babas and others gather near the temple and play carrom board. It is the biggest social event in Gangotri during winter. Cricket is not possible because of snow, and gathering enough players in such cold weather is nearly impossible.”</p>.<p>Gangotri in winter is silent, harsh, and unforgiving — but at the same time, it is magical. It offers a rare glimpse into a life that survives at sub-zero temperatures, where nature dominates, and the human presence feels small, fragile, yet determined.</p>