India’s big cheese moment

From Ladakh’s yak milk churpi to Kashmir’s bloomy-rind wheels, India’s artisanal cheeses are gaining attention. Global techniques are being employed to local milk, climate patterns, and culture, ensuring that cheeses are rooted and unique, discovers Neeta Lal.

When India recently walked away with four medals at the Mundial do Queijo do Brasil 2026 — a prestigious global competition in Brazil that brings together cheesemakers and dairy experts from across continents to judge cheeses on flavour, texture, technique and terroir — it wasn’t just a win for a handful of producers.

India’s haul, including a Super Gold for Eleftheria Gulmarg’s delicate, brie-style wheel, marked its debut on a world stage dominated by European cheeses. More importantly, it marked a deeper shift in India’s culinary identity, one that chefs across the country have been nurturing: a move toward hyperlocal, artisanal cheeses that speak of terroir, season, and skill.

Focus on indigenous 

For decades, India’s fine-dining kitchens leaned heavily on imported cheeses —Parmesan shaved over pastas, French brie on cheese boards, burrata flown in for salads. But that reliance is changing fast. Today, chefs are turning to the high-altitude dairies of Ladakh, the lush pastures of Kashmir, and experimental creameries across the country incorporating their produce into menus that celebrate Indian landscapes. 

At the forefront of this shift is Prateek Sadhu, whose cooking has long drawn from the Himalayan belt at his restaurant Naar in Himachal. “The beauty of these cheeses lies in their honesty,” he says. “A yak milk churpi from Ladakh or a brie-style from Kashmir carries the story of altitude, pasture, and the hands that made it. Why would I replace that with something flown halfway across the world?”

Working closely with small producers, Sadhu adapts dishes around what is seasonally available rather than demanding consistency. So, a soft, smoky churpi might find its way into broths or be paired with foraged greens, its subtle tang anchoring the dish. It’s a far cry from the predictable cheese courses of yore.

This philosophy resonates with Garima Arora — the first Indian woman chef to earn two Michelin stars — whose cooking has always reinterpreted Indian ingredients through a contemporary lens. “For a long time, we believed that quality cheese had to come from Europe,” she notes. “But what’s happening now is a re-education of both chefs and diners.Indian cheeses are no longer substitutes — they are stars in their own right.”

Arora points to the diversity emerging within the category itself: creamy, bloomy-rind cheeses from Kashmir; nutty, caramelised brunost-style experiments; and the evolving textures of churpi, from rock-hard chewables to delicate, spreadable forms. “It opens up a new vocabulary for Indian cuisine,” she says. “You can create dishes that are globally relevant but deeply local.”

Few have championed this local-first approach as consistently as Aditi Dugar, founder of the farm-to-table restaurant Masque. For Dugar, the rise of artisanal cheese is part of a larger ecosystem shift. “We’ve always believed in working directly with producers—whether it’s farmers, foragers, or cheesemakers,” she says.

At Masque, cheese boards now tell an Indian story: wheels from Kashmir, experiments from small urban creameries, and collaborations that evolve with each season. “It’s also about storytelling,” Dugar adds. “When guests hear about the people behind the cheese — their challenges, craft — it changes how they taste it.”

That connection between producer and plate has been critical in reshaping supply chains. Cheesemakers like Mumbai-based Mausam Narang of Eleftheria and Ladakh-based producers such as Thenlay Nurboo are no longer niche suppliers but key collaborators in a growing movement. Their success at global platforms like the Brazil competition has only accelerated demand, pushing chefs to move toward collaboration.

Global wins, local pride

For many, this moment feels like a long time coming. Indian dairy traditions are ancient and varied, from the smoked cheeses of the Northeast to the fermented milk products of the Himalayas. What’s new is the refinement — the application of global techniques to local milk, climates, and cultures, resulting in cheeses that are rooted and revered. 

There are challenges, of course. Seasonality can make supply inconsistent; logistics from remote regions remain complex; and pricing can be higher than mass-produced imports. However, chefs see these not as obstacles but as opportunities. “It forces creativity,” says Sadhu. “You cook with what you have, when you have it. That’s how cuisine evolves.”

The ripple effects are visible. Diners are becoming more curious, more willing to try unfamiliar names and flavours. There’s also a growing sense of pride. When Prime Minister Narendra Modi lauded India’s wins at the Brazil competition, it underscored how far the movement has come — from niche farmers’ markets to international glory.