Stirring it up with some umami

Although whisky sour always included egg whites, the first time I considered having a proper non-vegetarian cocktail was in Bangkok last year. An umami-rich flavour profile elevated the mouthfeel of the drink called ‘Squid’ at the Mahaniyom bar in the city. It is a blend of vodka, mezcal, and sake with dried squid, squid ink, clarified tomato juice and pickled ginger cordial in a Southeast Asian flavour. Nischal Suman, the beverage manager at Mumbai’s popular Asian restaurant Gaijin was experimenting with seafood flavours in his drinks back in 2021. On the rising trend of incorporating non-vegetarian ingredients in cocktails, Suman says, “In the past few years alone, we’ve seen this fascinating trend shape up as bars boldly showcase innovative drinks and are leaning towards using meat and seafood.” 

Emergence of savoury cocktails 

In the history of classic cocktails, savoury cocktails were not the biggest highlight ever, and neither did anyone think of making cocktails (typically meant for women) in palates other than sweetness. “A classic that sparked this movement for us at Gaijin was the Bullshot, a concoction of vodka, beef bouillon, Worcestershire sauce, Tabasco, lemon, and seasoning,” Suman says. A few years back, he did create a clear prawn head broth, clarified with egg shells and egg whites. “I paired this with vodka to create a frozen vodka martini at 0 degrees. The result was a beautifully balanced drink with extraordinary taste that left a lasting impression,” he shared. And yet, the drink never made it to the cocktail menu at the time. 

Sourav Singh, Founder of Pundit Cocktail, a Kolkata-based beverage consultant and an award-winning mixologist was an early caller to the trend. He created his first ‘non-veg cocktail’ in 2015 for the World Class bartending championship, featuring a pork belly fat-washed whiskey. At the time, Singh notes, “consumers in India barely had any awareness of the complex techniques and ingredients that could make their cocktails savoury. None of the bars I worked at were too willing to embrace such ingredients then.” 

With the World’s 50 Best Bars list making the rounds on social media, urban consumers are increasingly becoming involved in tracking cocktail trends at the places they visit for work or holidays now. Interestingly, inspiration does not emerge only from global bars. At Bandra’s neighbourhood bar Sixteen33, mixologist Denzil Franklin wanted to focus on the storytelling behind their signature cocktails celebrating the six villages from the vicinity that formed Bandra: Ranwar, Chimbai, Chuim, Pali, Sherly and Kantwadi. Chimbai, the coastal village inspires a savoury tipple with vodka, shrimp liqueur, watermelon and sea salt capturing the essence of Mumbai’s Koli fishing community. Shahrom Oshtori, Partner and Founder, says, it is a cocktail-forward restaurant celebrating its local tradition, so every detail honours Bandra’s bonds with its past and present.

Yet to gain wider reach

However, larger acceptance of the umami palate is yet to seep in among audiences, notes Manish Chauhan, Beverage Head at Massive Restaurants that helms brands like Pa Pa Ya and Farzi Café. Capturing their approach, he says, “we are exploring creative and savoury directions in our cocktail programme, including the use of ingredients like meat and animal fat. However, these approaches aren’t about novelty for the sake of shock value, but are rooted in deep culinary principles.”

Chef Ali Akbar Baldiwala of Slink & Bardot has tasted some incredible savoury cocktails globally. “One of the best was a beef consommé cocktail by Jay Khan, the bartender from Coa in Hong Kong. I’ve also had drinks using chicken stock, beef jerky garnishes, and even dehydrated prawn or crab as cocktail accents. When used correctly, these ingredients create a rich, layered experience”, he admits.

He further highlights the limitation of trying non-vegetarian ingredients in India due to cultural sensitivities. “The oldest savoury cocktail that comes to mind is the Bloody Mary. Since then, few have really explored savouriness in cocktails, but that’s changing. Meats and seafood can work beautifully when used thoughtfully. Perhaps skip beef and pork, but seafood-based elements or umami ingredients like seaweed and mushrooms can add remarkable depth and character,” Baldiwala opines. Asian bars and their popularity in cities like Bangkok, Hongkong, Tokyo and Singapore are driving the introduction of intriguing ingredients, and their Indian counterparts are also experimenting with this trend. 

(This article is for informational purposes only and is not intended to promote or condone the abuse of alcohol. Alcohol should be consumed responsibly and in moderation by individuals of legal drinking age.)