More than just papads and pickles

Flavours of Sindh, published by the Bangalore Ladies Chapter (BLC) of the Sindhi Council of India, unearths long-forgotten family recipes as well as links between the history and the geography of a land and its food. It describes how a cuisine survived the ravages of Partition and the aftermath of migration.

 Battling extreme temperatures, making do with little other than gram flour and dry masalas and using “no grind” methods of cooking, Sindhi women turned out delicious — though rich — food. They used jowar and khus-khus generously to combat severe winters and whipped up sharbaths to beat the heat in scorching summers.

In anticipation of the long and arduous journey to India, post Partition, many canny Sindhi grandmothers dipped gold coins into batter and made pakoras to carry across the newly-formed border. And when they had to begin life all over again, they used their papad- and pickle-making skills to generate income for their families.

Saluting the spirit of these women and documenting the culinary journey of a community that loves its sai bhaaji and pakwaan, the Bangalore Ladies Chapter of the Sindhi Council of India began putting together Flavours of Sindh in May last year.

 “Although authenticity is key to flavour, some shortcuts are allowed,” smiles Radhika D Shyam, who played a vital role in documenting traditional recipes for the book.

“For instance, Sindhi Curry is not supposed to be made in the pressure cooker, but no one really uses the kunna or the mud pot in modern kitchens. Even in a dish like sai  bhaaji, one can substitute heavy tubers like yam and arbi without sacrificing taste.

However, unique dishes like mae ja laddoo, essentially a winter sweet made with poppy seeds, have all but disappeared from family kitchens. The book is an attempt to rekindle the yearning for traditional fare among the elders of the community and familiarise the youth with their roots,” she says.

Flavours of Sindh, which was released late last year, sold like the proverbial Sindhi papads! Until, you get your hands on the book, here are a few recipes for you to try out.

Varo(Sindhi Dry Fruit Praline)

Ingredients: 2 cups sugar; 1 cup poppy seeds (washed, sun-dried and powdered in a dry mixer); 1½ cups almonds and pistachio flakes; 100 gm ghee; ½ cup dhaannan jo magaz (coriander seed kernels); 1 tbsp cardamom powder.

Garnish: 4 tbsp pistachio flakes; 1 tbsp melon seeds.

Cooking time: 40 minutes. Serves 8.

Method: In a heavy-bottom vessel or non- stick pan add about 90 grams of ghee and fry poppy seeds till pink. Add dhaannan jo magaz and stir-fry for 8-10 minutes. Toss in the almonds and pistachios. Mix well. Remove from flame and keep aside. In another non-stick pan or heavy-bottom vessel, heat the rest of the ghee. Add sugar and mix well till it has melted (on a low flame). Add the poppy seeds, cardamom powder and dhaannan jo magaz to this sugar syrup. Mix properly and pour into a 12” greased plate (thali). Add pistachio flakes and then flatten it with the base of a greased flat bowl (katori). With a greased spatula (khurpi) mark and cut into 8 pieces (like cake slices).
After 10 or 15 minutes, lift out each piece and keep aside on a dry and clean plate. When completely dry and cool, pack in zip lock pouches and store. Shelf life: 2 weeks.

Sindhi Lasagna

For the patties: 100 gm refined flour; 1 tsp oil; 1/2 tsp salt.

For the sauce: 1 kg tomatoes (pureed); 1 tsp red chilli powder; 1 tsp garlic (chopped); 100 gm cheese (grated); 2 tsp oil; Sugar to taste; Salt to taste.

For layering: 1 cup lotus seeds (phool tapasha); 1 cup lotus stem pieces (boiled and chopped); a few mushrooms (chopped); 4 tsp tomato sauce; 1 tsp red chilli powder; Salt to taste.

Method: Knead flour, oil and salt with a little water to make a dough. Keep aside for half an hour. Divide the dough into two parts. Roll it out. Cut it into 8 rectangular strips of 4”x 3”. Boil water in an open vessel. Dip the strips in water and boil for 1 -2 minutes. Remove and keep aside. Boil the phool tapasha and mushrooms separately in an open vessel for 5-10 minutes each. Mix these with pre-boiled lotus stem. Add tomato sauce, chilli powder and salt to it and keep aside.

Heat oil in a pan. Add garlic and tomato puree. Boil for 10 minutes. Add sugar, chilli powder and salt to taste. Boil till moderately thick. Grease a baking dish. Arrange 4 strips next to each other. Layer it with phool tapasha and mushrooms. Repeat to arrange one more layer and close with the remaining lasagna strips. Pour the entire prepared sauce over this. Sprinkle the grated cheese generously on top. Bake it in a preheated oven for 30-40 minutes. Serve hot with garlic bread.