Courchevel: Get set & ski

Courchevel is part of Les Trois Vallées in the French Alps and the world’s largest interconnected ski area. The acclaim for this location, known for its spectacular natural beauty, impressive skiing scene, and extensive range of sporting opportunities is universal. Courchevel comprises six interconnected villages, each situated at a different altitude.

The most prominent village, widely represented in the media and shaping its public image, is Courchevel 1850, which, as its name suggests, is located at an altitude of 1850 metres. With its five-star resorts, convenient access to ski runs, luxurious shops, and après-ski scene (post-ski activities), it is undoubtedly the most glamorous of the villages.

If you identify Courchevel solely with the materialist paradise that is 1850, much of the nuance of the place is obscured. The character of each village that comprises Courchevel is, in fact, unique. Courchevel 1650 and 1550, for instance, which are just a gondola ride away from 1850, offer family-friendly amenities, accommodation, and dining options that cater to a range of budgets.

But regardless of which village you choose to stay in, ski lifts and free shuttles connect you to the slopes. As I converse with the locals, I become increasingly aware that, aside from the adrenaline-pumping activities (skiing, sledging, snowshoeing, husky safaris, ice diving, snowmobile rides — all marvellous ways to experience the landscape), there is a profound cultural and introspective aspect to Courchevel.

Charm of St. Bon

St. Bon, at an altitude of 1,100 metres, is a revelation to me. This village, the birthplace of Courchevel, has maintained its authenticity. Before the introduction of hydroelectric power and the emergence of winter sports tourism, these valleys flourished with an agro-pastoral economy. Today, St. Bon continues to display its traditional charm.

The Alpine architecture and traditional chalets, featuring stone and wood exteriors, stand beside simple barns (where the livestock feed), an old mill, and a communal oven that line the narrow cobblestone streets, all seamlessly integrated into the surrounding landscape. And what a landscape it is. Glorious views of mountains and valleys capture my attention everywhere.

That is until I step inside the 17th-century St. Bon Church. Typical of an alpine environment, churches often feature simple façades with ornate interiors; this one is no exception. Inside, I am confronted by gilded wood, twisted columns, laughing cherubs, and sculpted flowers—all bursting with the vitality of folk art. In its characteristic Baroque expressiveness, the altar reflects the concerns and dogmas of the times in which it was created. In one striking altar piece, I see souls struggling in purgatory, serving as a reminder to the faithful of their obligation to attend Mass and underscoring the universal nature of death. Sacred art was thus often interwoven with dogma and concerns from everyday life, and saints were assigned specific roles that reflected the issues of the land. Saint Anthony, for instance, is the protector of mules; Saint Grat, the protector of crops; and Saint Bernard des Alpes, the protector of those lost in the mountains.

In the neighbouring village at 1,300 metres, Le Praz transports me back in time. There is a 15th-century chapel, a natural lake where locals fish for rainbow and brook trout, and a spruce forest. At the cafés, I savour products from the surrounding high-altitude pastures and farms. Delicacies such as chestnuts, wild fruits, and polenta, as well as cheeses like Beaufort and Reblochon, along with other Savoie specialities like honey, meat, and wine, are among the local treasures. Finally, I stroll past traditional houses to reach the iconic ski-jumping hill, Tremplin du Praz, built for the 1992 Winter Olympics.

Beyond snow activities

If you visit Courchevel solely for the snow activities, you miss some of the wonder of the place. Florent, a local resident, takes me on a walk to Lac de la Rosière, often described as the Green Diamond of the Alps. En route, we navigate breathtaking mountain scenery, including pine forests, waterfalls, and babbling brooks, before eventually strolling along a footbridge to what feels like an enchanted, turquoise lake.

Besides its magnificent hiking trails, Courchevel also serves as the entry point to Vanoise National Park, which celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2023.

Regardless of which path you choose from the network of over 500 km of hiking trails, you will be greeted by a diverse alpine ecosystem. In summer, amidst lush flower-filled meadows, pine forests, and stunning mountain landscapes, you may encounter the wild genepi plant, edelweiss, ibex, marmots, and golden eagles.

Ultimately, regardless of which village of Courchevel you choose to stay in, or which ski outfit or equipment you opt to rent, once you are in the lap of nature, facing the grandeur of the mountains—whether skiing, Nordic walking, or enjoying a kayak rideon the lake—everyone, irrespective of their bank balance, is likely to experience the same joys. Nature is truly the great equaliser.