Ocean’s whisper for travel enthusiasts

The image of this ubiquitous bird displayed in malls, parks, and on signboards intrigued me on our first day in Mauritius. “Oh, that’s our dodo,” said our driver Roshan.

He must’ve thought what a dumb dodo I was and waxed eloquent about this plump, flightless bird that was once native to Mauritius and now extinct for over 300 years.

During our five days in this island nation, I learnt more about the dodo, a symbol of national identity in Mauritius. We encountered giant dodo statues in parks and food courts; the bird has lent its name to restaurants and shops and figures prominently on bags, clothing, beach towels, beer and rum labels. What’s more, it also appears on the country’s stamps and Coat of Arms, and is one of the most popular souvenirs that tourists take home.

Curious to know more about this bird, we decided to visit the Dodo Gallery, part of the Natural History Museum, a colonial building in the capital, Port Louis. It showcases the history of this extinct bird through pictures, sketches, audio/video, and life-size exhibits. We also spotted a tiny message that said “extinct but not forgotten”. The dodo may be extinct but it is alive and squawking as it were, continuing to serve as a poignant symbol of Mauritius. More importantly, it quietly raises awareness that humans must not let other species go the way of the dodo.

History of indentured workers

Another equally edifying and fascinatingly touching point of interest was the Aapravasi Ghat, a UNESCO World Heritage site, the remains of an immigration depot from where modern indentured labour emerged. Built in 1849, it received indentured labourers from India, China, East Africa and some other parts to work on the island’s sugar estates.

Today, only half of the depot area exists with the remains of the sheds for the housing of the immigrants, kitchens, objects they used, lavatories, a hospital block and the symbolic flight of 14 steps upon which all immigrants had to lay foot before entering the depot.

Within the complex is a well-curated museum, offering an in-depth look at the history of indentured labourers who arrived in Mauritius in the 19th century. Reading the explanatory panels proved to be an interesting, albeit sad history and culture of these early immigrants. Stepping out of this museum, one realised why Mauritius is such a lovely melting pot of cultures with descendants of Indians comprising 70 per cent of the 1.3 million population. Entry is free at the Natural History Museum and the Aapravasi Ghat.

Port Louis is impressive, a bustling port city with a blend of colonial and modern architecture. We drove uphill to La Citadelle (Fort Adelaide), which lies between a semi-circle of mountains and a deepwater harbour, and provides a panoramic view of the city and the surrounding mountain ranges. This blackstone fortress, completed in the early 1840s, stood guard against enemy attacks, our guide explains. The fortress is a great place for photography and to enjoy the scenery, weather permitting.

From here, we got a glimpse of the Mauritius Turf Club and the race course, the second largest and among the oldest in the world, situated in the heart of the city.  

Our next port of call was the Caudan Waterfront, a charming area with little lanes filled with shops, restaurants, and kiosks retailing music, clothing, food, souvenirs and fresh juices. We enjoyed ambling along and simply watching people and listening to a busker.

To get a taste of local life, there’s nothing better than visiting a market. The Port Louis Central Market is an open-air, noisy, bustling place with hundreds of shops selling everything, from fresh produce to textiles, spices, souvenirs, local crafts and food. The shop-keepers vie for your attention and thankfully, bargaining does work. While the experience was rewarding, strolling amidst the crowds in the summer heat was no cakewalk; fresh sugarcane did prove to be invigorating. A riveting experience was to visit the Le Port Ship Model factory in the quaint town of Vacoas-Phoenix where models of ships are handcrafted by experts. One can see women meticulously creating models with skill and dedication and a guide explaining the craft. We were next led to the section where a variety of stunning replicas, from the Titanic to HMS Bounty, The Black Pearl and the Wasa, made of teak and mahogany, alongside miniature models, are for sale.

Natural attractions

Once colonised by the Dutch, French and British, this tiny dot of land in the vast Indian Ocean offers many attractions. The Valley of Colours, a nature park in the midst of tropical forests in the south, is one such. A beautiful spot here is the 23-coloured earth that dates back to millions of years, a phenomenon caused by volcanic activity and mineral deposits. The park is scenic with a couple of waterfalls, ponds, and plenty of greenery, apart from a 1.5-km zipline.

Another natural attraction is the Trou aux Cerfs, a dormant volcano near the town of Curepipe. The volcanic crater is about 600 m above sea level with a diameter of 350 m and a depth of around 100m. All around lie thick greenery including giant pine trees, making the small lake invisible. We learned that the volcano has remained dormant for the last 700,000 years.

Given the number of islands, island hopping on speed boats and catamarans coupled with water sports is popular in the eastern parts. 

Driving around the country, one is never far from the Indian Ocean coast or vast stretches of sugarcane fields inland. The people are warm and easy going and one feels quite at home with the large presence of Indian descendants. There are many colourful temples and streets named after Mahatma Gandhi and Rabindranath Tagore and even a Baroda Lane.

Any wonder why Mauritius is called ‘Chota Bharat’ (Little India) by the locals?