Snapshots from Germany

So much to see, so little time. This is often the case with any destination, but it rings especially true in Germany, a country brimming with mountains, rivers, castles, and forts. The following locations fulfil my cultural cravings, with a dash of natural beauty added for good measure.

The Upper Middle Rhine Valley

This Unesco World Heritage site stretches across approximately 65 kilometres of the Rhine River, between Rüdesheim, Bingen, and Koblenz. It boasts a remarkable collection of cultural landmarks nestled within captivating natural landscapes. This section of the Rhine, once a vital transport and trade route connecting the Mediterranean with Northern Europe, is dotted with around 40 hilltop fortresses and castles. Many of these were built by local barons who collected tolls from passing travellers. Abandonment and wars in the 17th century left some of these castles in ruins. Yet, during the Romantic era of the 18th century, these neglected hilltop fortresses captivated the public’s imagination, paving the way for 19th-century restorations and reconstructions.

These monumental structures, set like precious jewels amidst the hills covered in vines, jagged cliffs, terraced vineyards, and Gothic church spires, continue to inspire artists of all kinds — from painters and poets to composers. Richard Wagner found inspiration in this area when composing his opera, Gotterdammerung. The many stories further heighten the valley’s allure — both real and mythical. Heinrich Heine penned his famous poem, Lorelei, here, inspired by the Lorelei rock, a steep slate formation that rises 132 metres above the river. According to legend, a blonde siren would sing a captivating song, luring sailors to their doom on the Rhine.

A perfect way to experience this region is by taking a hop-on, hop-off cruise along the river, allowing you to disembark and explore the various attractions. The sight of castles like Marksburg — the only completely preserved hilltop castle — and Rheinfels, which evolved into an imposing fortress, combined with a leisurely glass of local wine, stirs both the heart and the imagination.

Erfurt, a medieval town adventure

Erfurt, the capital of Thuringia, has inspired countless odes. The city offers monumental churches, charming cobbled squares, and centuries-old buildings. Noteworthy landmarks like the Old Synagogue and the Merchant’s Bridge highlight its historical importance as a medieval trade hub. A standout is the Zitadelle Petersburg, Europe’s largest and best-preserved Baroque fortress. After soaking in the spectacular views, be sure to explore the network of tunnels that once served as defensive passages. The Angermuseum, housed in a Baroque building from 1712, boasts a wealth of artwork from the 17th century to the present.

While Erfurt preserves its past remarkably and also thrives as a university town, it balances its rich history with a lively contemporary scene. The 120-metre-long Merchant’s Bridge, considered the longest in Europe, is lined with artisanal shops nestled within centuries-old timber-framed houses. Here, you’ll find delights like chocolates, pottery, and jewellery, all crafted with local flair. The city’s theatre, built in the 21st century, is renowned for its vibrant programming of opera, dance, ballet, and plays. No visit would be complete without savouring hearty Thuringian dishes. Every meal offers a delicious slice of local culture, from potato dumplings and bratwurst (grilled sausages) to a variety of local beers reflecting the region’s deep brewing tradition.

Brühl, the Castle Queen

Located just 20 km south of Cologne, Brühl is a quaint town with many treasures. Archbishop-Elector Clemens August, known for his lavish parties and opulent lifestyle, selected Brühl as the site for his grand residences. The castles he built here are now Unesco World Heritage sites. Schloss Augustusburg, his preferred residence, is a Rococo masterpiece designed by François Cuvillies, with contributions from other 18th-century architects. Balthazar Neumann, a star architect of the period, enhanced the castle with a ceremonial staircase, blending marble, stucco, and jasper columns into a stunning design.

Stepping into the palace is like entering a world of courtly luxury and glamour. The interiors feature Rocaille, an 18th-century decorative style characterised by intricate shell and pebble motifs, which gave rise to the name Rococo. The symmetrical French-inspired gardens are another highlight, offering a tranquil retreat. A part of the ensemble, the Hunting Lodge Falkenlust, is a small but exquisite Rococo building designed specifically for falconry.

For a change of pace, the Max Ernst Museum in Brühl offers a more modern experience. This museum invites visitors to explore the life and artistic journey of this renowned artist, who was born in Brühl. The museum showcases various phases of his Dadaist and surrealist work, which consistently surprises and captivates with its imaginative and often bizarre imagery. Much like the town itself, the museum is a delightful and thought-provoking destination.