<p><em>Swati & Sanjay A Pai</em></p>.<p>It was on a cycle-rickshaw that we experienced the famous Lucknowi tehzeeb. A motorcycle speeding madly and about to dangerously cut past us abruptly slows down and allows us to pass — because our driver has raised his left arm and nonchalantly suggested that he be given right of way! This phenomenon happened again and we could see glimpses of the leisurely past in the modernised city (with otherwise chaotic traffic), which is renowned for its nawabs and kebabs.</p>.<p>Nawabs there have been many but it’s the name of Asaf-ud-Daulah, the fourth nawab, which stands out as the most important. After all, it was he and his architect, Kifayatullah, who built the structure that is most associated with the city — the Bara Imambara (the bara here means house, thus a congregation hall for people to meet during Muharram). The imambara’s reputation is based, in part, on its ornate architecture and more importantly, its dome which is among the largest unsupported domes in the world. The high point of the imambara is the set of narrow corridors, referred to as the Bhul-bhulaiya. A labyrinthine complex in which it is easy to get lost — it is for very good reason that you be accompanied by a guide. A fascinating facet of the nawab is the fact that he commissioned the Imambara so as to offer gainful employment to workers during a famine in the 1780s. </p>.Snow, security and a promise of recovery in Gulmarg.<p><strong>Rumi Darwaza</strong> </p>.<p>Adjacent to the Bara Imambara is the Rumi Darwaza, also built by the same Nawab. The gate offers a pareidolia — patterns quite appropriate for the city — it clearly resembles the famous chikan embroidery that Lucknow has created. A Chotta Imambara is about 400 metres away and has a hammam, as well. Half-way between the two imambaras is the impressive British-built clock tower with four clocks, all in working condition. Close by is the unfortunately named Satkhanda. Nawab Mohammed Ali Shah planned to build seven storeys (Sat = seven, khanda = floors) but stopped after four floors, in grief, because of the death of his daughter.</p>.<p>From the recesses of our minds, we were able to recollect that Lucknow played a major role in — choose what term you will — the first War of Independence or the Sepoy Mutiny. A walking tour with the knowledgeable Vishal Kaushal took us from Hazrathganj, the central business district of Lucknow, to The Residency (the name of the area where the British lived).</p>.<p>En route, a building named Generalwali Kothi, offers the opportunity to view a ten-minute movie on The Residency. The hour or so that it takes to see the well-maintained ruins (an oxymoron) and lawns is well worth the time. Bullet and cannon-ball holes from 1857 in some of the buildings — and also, not unexpectedly, 21st century graffiti on the walls. More signages would also help. Apparently, there is an impressive sound-and-light show, but we saw no activity in the area that evening. An unexpected twist of humour was introduced by a watchman who instructed us not to touch the plaque outside one of the buildings. Attempts to convince him that it was in Braille and was meant to be touched, failed to convince him. </p>.<p><strong>Ganj-ing!</strong></p>.<p>'Ganjing', the accepted term for strolling through Hazratganj, shows buildings with the classic colonial architecture cheek-by-jowl with modern buildings. The ganj and its environs also offer the chance to indulge in the other reason that one visits this city — to eat. And then eat more. Basket chaat, a conglomerate of various chaats is what we recommend in one of the many famous restaurants, Royal Cafe. And the truly melt-in-the-mouth galauti kebab at Mughal’s Dastarkhwan or at Tunday Kababi. The rickshaw ride (which gave us the opportunity to practise tehzeeb: we paid the driver rather more than he had quoted) to nearby Aminabad took us to a kulfi in a shop whose owner seems to have been influenced by Henry Ford's mantra, “Any colour that you want, as long as it's black”. Prakash ki Mashoor Kulfi, around from 1956, sells only one flavour: kesar-pista. </p>.<p>Small wonder then, that in October 2025, Lucknow was named as a UNESCO creative city of Gastronomy. For a city filled with history art, culture and food, one cannot help but keep up with its tagline, “Muskuraiye…aap Lucknow mein hain”. </p>.<p><strong>CHECKLIST</strong></p>.<p>•The ideal time to visit Lucknow is between October and March. Temperatures begin to rise in April, and may not be conducive for walks in the city.</p>.<p>•Shop for chikankari, the embroidery that Lucknow is well-known for, and ittars (perfume).</p>.<p>•Don't miss the variety of chaats, kebabs and kulfis, when you are walking in the Ganj neighbourhood. </p>.<p>•Opt for one of the heritage tours so you can get an understanding of the city's history and culture. </p>
<p><em>Swati & Sanjay A Pai</em></p>.<p>It was on a cycle-rickshaw that we experienced the famous Lucknowi tehzeeb. A motorcycle speeding madly and about to dangerously cut past us abruptly slows down and allows us to pass — because our driver has raised his left arm and nonchalantly suggested that he be given right of way! This phenomenon happened again and we could see glimpses of the leisurely past in the modernised city (with otherwise chaotic traffic), which is renowned for its nawabs and kebabs.</p>.<p>Nawabs there have been many but it’s the name of Asaf-ud-Daulah, the fourth nawab, which stands out as the most important. After all, it was he and his architect, Kifayatullah, who built the structure that is most associated with the city — the Bara Imambara (the bara here means house, thus a congregation hall for people to meet during Muharram). The imambara’s reputation is based, in part, on its ornate architecture and more importantly, its dome which is among the largest unsupported domes in the world. The high point of the imambara is the set of narrow corridors, referred to as the Bhul-bhulaiya. A labyrinthine complex in which it is easy to get lost — it is for very good reason that you be accompanied by a guide. A fascinating facet of the nawab is the fact that he commissioned the Imambara so as to offer gainful employment to workers during a famine in the 1780s. </p>.Snow, security and a promise of recovery in Gulmarg.<p><strong>Rumi Darwaza</strong> </p>.<p>Adjacent to the Bara Imambara is the Rumi Darwaza, also built by the same Nawab. The gate offers a pareidolia — patterns quite appropriate for the city — it clearly resembles the famous chikan embroidery that Lucknow has created. A Chotta Imambara is about 400 metres away and has a hammam, as well. Half-way between the two imambaras is the impressive British-built clock tower with four clocks, all in working condition. Close by is the unfortunately named Satkhanda. Nawab Mohammed Ali Shah planned to build seven storeys (Sat = seven, khanda = floors) but stopped after four floors, in grief, because of the death of his daughter.</p>.<p>From the recesses of our minds, we were able to recollect that Lucknow played a major role in — choose what term you will — the first War of Independence or the Sepoy Mutiny. A walking tour with the knowledgeable Vishal Kaushal took us from Hazrathganj, the central business district of Lucknow, to The Residency (the name of the area where the British lived).</p>.<p>En route, a building named Generalwali Kothi, offers the opportunity to view a ten-minute movie on The Residency. The hour or so that it takes to see the well-maintained ruins (an oxymoron) and lawns is well worth the time. Bullet and cannon-ball holes from 1857 in some of the buildings — and also, not unexpectedly, 21st century graffiti on the walls. More signages would also help. Apparently, there is an impressive sound-and-light show, but we saw no activity in the area that evening. An unexpected twist of humour was introduced by a watchman who instructed us not to touch the plaque outside one of the buildings. Attempts to convince him that it was in Braille and was meant to be touched, failed to convince him. </p>.<p><strong>Ganj-ing!</strong></p>.<p>'Ganjing', the accepted term for strolling through Hazratganj, shows buildings with the classic colonial architecture cheek-by-jowl with modern buildings. The ganj and its environs also offer the chance to indulge in the other reason that one visits this city — to eat. And then eat more. Basket chaat, a conglomerate of various chaats is what we recommend in one of the many famous restaurants, Royal Cafe. And the truly melt-in-the-mouth galauti kebab at Mughal’s Dastarkhwan or at Tunday Kababi. The rickshaw ride (which gave us the opportunity to practise tehzeeb: we paid the driver rather more than he had quoted) to nearby Aminabad took us to a kulfi in a shop whose owner seems to have been influenced by Henry Ford's mantra, “Any colour that you want, as long as it's black”. Prakash ki Mashoor Kulfi, around from 1956, sells only one flavour: kesar-pista. </p>.<p>Small wonder then, that in October 2025, Lucknow was named as a UNESCO creative city of Gastronomy. For a city filled with history art, culture and food, one cannot help but keep up with its tagline, “Muskuraiye…aap Lucknow mein hain”. </p>.<p><strong>CHECKLIST</strong></p>.<p>•The ideal time to visit Lucknow is between October and March. Temperatures begin to rise in April, and may not be conducive for walks in the city.</p>.<p>•Shop for chikankari, the embroidery that Lucknow is well-known for, and ittars (perfume).</p>.<p>•Don't miss the variety of chaats, kebabs and kulfis, when you are walking in the Ganj neighbourhood. </p>.<p>•Opt for one of the heritage tours so you can get an understanding of the city's history and culture. </p>
