Srinagar diary: A journo's struggle to find internet

There was an eerie silence on the darkened streets outside my home on the outskirts of Srinagar when I woke up on Monday (August 5).

My abuji (father) asked me whether I had information about the abrogation of special status for Jammu and Kashmir.

As the internet and phone service had been snapped at midnight, I asked him whether there was news about Kashmir on TV. His reply was shocking. News channels had been barred and a strict curfew was in place outside my home.

I hugged my sons, told my wife that I may have to be away from home for several days and got into my car. I was headed to the city centre, Lal Chowk, where the offices of most of the media organisations are located. I had driven just two kilometres when I was stopped by a posse of paramilitary troopers.

“Kahaan se aaye ho? Kahaan janaa hain? Tumhe nahin patha curfew laga hain? (Where have you come from? Where are you going? Don’t you know there is a curfew?)." I pleaded that I am a journalist and am discharging my professional duties like them. After a few minutes, they asked me to take another route. It then took me three hours to reach the city centre. It usually takes me 15 minutes.

I've had the experience of unrest in the Valley in 2016 when the areas were locked down for months and internet and mobile services were repeatedly shut off.

On Monday, I finally managed to reach the office of a regional newspaper, hoping to get internet access. I saw the faces of two old friends who worked there and I knew something was wrong. They informed me that Article 370 had been abrogated and that Jammu and Kashmir was not a state anymore.

I asked them why they were not filing stories. And I got another shock. The dedicated internet line for their office had also been snapped. After a while, we decided to approach the Deputy Commissioner’s office to get curfew passes. An official at that office told us that no curfew passes were being issued and there were strict orders that no local reporter should receive a pass.

We then tried to visit the nearby Civil Secretariat. At the main entrance, we passed a large deployment of troops. We then introduced ourselves to local police personnel on security duty. We wanted to go inside but they told us nobody was inside. And there was visible curiosity on their faces. When we told them that Jammu and Kashmir's special status had been revoked, they were stunned.

“Sir, we will face the same situation in Kashmir some years down the line like Palestinians are facing," said one of them. "We are helpless like our fellow Kashmiris.” Tears were rolling down his cheeks.

The next stop in our internet hunt was the office of the Senior Superintendent of Police, Security, who is considered to be media-friendly. However, our hopes were dashed again.

Walking many miles in hot and humid conditions took its toll. I made one final attempt to locate internet access. As my two journalist friends left, I decided to visit the local office of a national TV channel, which was two kilometres away.

The time had reached 9 p.m. and I had not eaten the whole day. A local TV channel reporter and long-time friend offered tea and snacks but there was no internet.

I left for home through the many barricades and hurdles and made it back by 11.30 p.m. My children had not slept as they were waiting for me to return. When I told my wife about the abrogation of Article 370, she, like many Kashmiris, had one question: Why did New Delhi do this when the situation was improving in Kashmir? I had no answers. I wanted to eat and get some sleep to be fresh for the next day’s grind.

Tuesday and Wednesday were no different. Kashmir is still recovering from the shock of what unfolded in Parliament. The Valley it seems is gearing up for another season of bloodshed.

From local policemen to mainstream leaders loyal to the country, many feel that Kashmiris have been robbed of their identity and they will not accept it. People feel that New Delhi has breached their trust and they have no recourse. Only time will tell what happens next in Kashmir.