The seven-mile serenity

From lofty hills to pristine beaches, our country abounds with natural attractions. The Lakshadweep Islands are the latest destination to catch the eye of Prime Minister Narendra Modi and the world. What? Where on earth is this Lakshadweep? Many find it challenging to trace the islands on the map, though they are just around the corner in the Arabian Sea. They are such a tiny speck in the vast ocean that it’s easy to overfly the islands.

Like Modi relaxing in the Lakshadweep, I discovered my own retreat tucked away in the Satkosia gorge, among the meandering waterways of the Mahanadi River. The river is deceptively silent as it carves its way through the hills at Barmul in the Angul district of Odisha. Trees grow right to the edge of the fathomless gorge on both banks, except where we spot the occasional crocodile basking on the sands in the afternoon sun. Sunlight can hardly pierce the air to reach the ground. Sitting on the bank, I never tire of the muddy waves fondling the shoreline. The mighty River Mahanadi looks docile as it flows through a narrow channel between the hills, which it has carved out to form the stunning gorge. It’s named Satkosia because of its length of seven miles, i.e., more than 11 kilometres. But in the rainy season, our guide tells us, floods push the water level up to the top of the hill. The force of the current is so strong that it sweeps away everything in its path, from tree trunks to animals like leopards,
deer, rabbits, foxes, monkeys, and even a few elephants!

We feel safe in the speedboat as it skims over the surface of the water, water everywhere. A crocodile chooses that moment to shake off its slumber on the muddy shore and slide into the water. Is it coming after us in search of its next meal? According to the guide, five to ten people are killed each year by crocodiles. Thank God our sturdy boat keeps the yawning jaws of the reptile at bay!

When we reach the centre of the lake, our escort cuts off the engine and lets the boat drift. There is absolute silence in that vast amphitheatre, except for the splashing water. So surreal!

“Don’t you feel defenceless?” I ask him. “I mean, alone among ruthless animals ready to pounce on you.”

He smiles. “Animals are harmless. They keep to themselves, except when they are hungry. It is human beings I have to be wary of and stay miles away.”