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Batik: Indonesia's treasured textile craft

Batik, a form of wax-resist dyeing, continues to thrive in Indonesia, the land of its origin
Last Updated 03 July 2022, 08:29 IST
A batik design in progress at a workshop. Credit Purnima Sharma
A batik design in progress at a workshop. Credit Purnima Sharma
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For Indians who are curious about batik—a wax-resist dyeing technique—Indonesia holds many surprises because this is where batik continues to thrive, albeit in a different style and format.

"Even though our country is synonymous with exotic beaches, beautiful markets, and colourful shopping experiences, batik is a precious part of our tradition," said Pak Suta, an acquaintance I made in Bali. "Many among us wear or carry something made of batik almost every day, be it a shirt, stole, bag or a headscarf like the one I am wearing," he said.

As we drive through the city, admiring the mammoth 400-ft high Garuda Wisnu Kencana statue, I listen to him talk about how the stature of batik had changed from when it was considered formal or traditional wear, fit only for the aristocracy.

Batik began to be celebrated again in Indonesia after October 2, 2009, when UNESCO designated Indonesian batik as a masterpiece of humanity's oral and intangible cultural heritage. The then President Soesilo Bambang Yoedhoyono declared October 2 as Batik Day.

Since then, batik's popularity has soared with renewed vigour. Indeed, this fact was brought home to me when I met a journalist from Indonesia wearing a traditional dress complemented with a stunning batik stole.

"We Indonesians wear something in batik at least once a week. That's our way of keeping this tradition alive and showing the world and each other how proud we are of it," she said.

Discovering the magic of batik

It was to get myself better acquainted with this craft that I visited a batik centre in Bali. The centre had many artisans working on batik pieces.

They created a pattern by applying hot wax on a cloth and then dipped it in dye. The waxed parts do not allow most of the colour to seep in. However, some dye makes its way through cracks to form a network of spidery designs that make batik unique. As the process is not mechanical, no two pieces of batik are alike.

While some believe that batik was first done in China, where fabric decorated with the resist technique has been found in tombs dating back to the 6th century, the recorded history of the art goes back to the 15th and 16th centuries in Java.

The significance of patterns in batik

Ardi Hariyadi, the junior curator at the Jakarta Textile Museum, told me about many popular patterns in Indonesia. These include the stunning geometrical designs of "kawung" inspired by the patterns of the areca palms.

"Parang," with its long narrow designs similar to a sword, is looked upon as a symbol of security. The "sekar jagad" design is an expression of love that also represents the beauty of Indonesian diversity.

The "trunturn" pattern is a symbol of awakened love, and is a favourite among newlyweds. While the "ulamsari mas" symbolises well-being, depicting peace and prosperity, the "buketan" design comes from the Dutch word "bocket," which means bouquet in English. This design is all about flowers, leaves, buds, butterflies and other vibrant motifs.

"All our patterns have beautiful, philosophical meanings. They depict different emotions—from joy and happiness to love and purity," says Hariyadi.

Visitors interested in learning more about Indonesian batik can participate in workshops. All you need is an artistic bent of mind, a stable hand, and some patience.

Some of the most spectacular works can take weeks to create and cost up to a million Indonesian Rupiah.

Celebrating heritage

Although batik came to be officially celebrated across Indonesia only about 13 years ago, people have always been aware and proud of its rich historical past.

According to Hariyadi, over four decades ago, several concerned citizens requested the government to set up a place where they could donate and preserve their old, precious textiles. And in 1976, the Museum Tekstil was created in Jakarta, where people donated several of their precious family heirlooms.

"Now we have over 500 national textiles including the traditional batik created by ladies of the aristocratic class on display; pieces that reflect its rich heritage," he said.

(Delhi-based independent journalist Purnima Sharma is happiest writing about people, places, art and culture and anything that touches the heart)

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(Published 30 June 2022, 16:32 IST)

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