Eye on Dubai: How an Indian became the UAE's most important photographer

Ramesh Shukla's riveting portraits are to be found all over the UAE, on bank notes, museums, logos

At Dubai's Etihad Museum, there is a particular "selfie" spot, which affords a unique photo op against a series of giant black and white photographs of the founding father of the United Arab Emirates. On closer look, one finds that the pictures were taken by a certain Ramesh Shukla, a name that pops up again and again on other significant photos throughout the museum that houses historical memorabilia and information about the creation of the UAE.

From a moving image of the founding fathers of the seven trucial states under the UAE flag to haunting portraits of Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, who served as the first president of the United Arab Emirates, they were all captured on Ramesh Shukla's camera.

We tracked down the photographer, now 84, in Dubai, where he runs the Four Seasons Ramesh Gallery with his son Neel and daughter-in-law Sylvia and got him to chat with DH about how he became the official photographer of the rulers of UAE.

From riding a donkey cart from Sharjah to Dubai on streets that were more sand than road, to seeing it develop into a world-class city, Shukla's reels stored it all.

You came to the UAE in the 1960s. Tell us a little bit about that journey and your first impressions.

In 1965, I boarded a ship called the Dwaraka with Rs 50 and a Rolleicord camera gifted by my father on my 15th birthday. Bound for an unknown destination, I later learned that the ship was headed to Sharjah. I was seasick the whole way, and when we docked, I realised I didn't have all the requirements for immigration. In the evening, an acquaintance helped me with the visa requirements and took me to his house. The next day, I took a donkey cart to Dubai and noticed there were no proper roads, just sand. It was desert all around and quite disorienting.

Tell us about your first encounter with Sheikh Zayed?

I had seen Sheikh Zayed numerous times, but I had never been able to speak with him until I received a call instructing me to travel to Sharjah to cover a camel race in 1968.

When I arrived, I saw Sheikh Zayed, Sheikh Rashid and other dignitaries sitting on the ground, watching the camel race. That was my first contact with His Highness Sheikh Zayed Bin Sultan Al Nahyan.

The next day I went to Sheikh Zayed to present the photograph I took during the camel race. He was delighted to see the photo and signed it for me. After that, I quickly became the most important photographer in the country, shooting hundreds of images of a new country and its founding fathers.

From the UAE's pre-oil era to its development into a globally cosmopolitan nation, my gallery of photos has tracked the UAE's transformation. It has also captured significant historical milestones like the union of the seven Emirates.

Through my book, The United Arab Emirates--Forty Years of Historical Photographs, I portrayed the enormous progress made by the country over the previous four decades.

What made you shift to the UAE permanently?

When I met Sheikh Zayed and Sheikh Rashid, their presence and the promise of the future convinced me to stay.

I was very ambitious and unafraid to start afresh in a new country. At that time, very few people had cameras, and that was my opportunity to capture the UAE's culture, heritage and life and show it to the world.

Three years after I landed in Sharjah, I called my family over to Dubai even though my financial situation was challenging. But I had confidence in myself.

Of the iconic photos, you took of the founders of the UAE, what is your personal favourite and why?

The picture of Sheikh Zayed signing the pact (with the rulers of the other Emirates in 1971) is one of my best shots. The photo is printed on the AED 50 banknote.

My group portrait of the founding fathers gathered beneath a waving flag has become symbolic of the UAE and is displayed across the region. It was also used to create the Spirit of the Union logo.

You have seen Dubai change into the world-class metropolis. What are your memories of the old Dubai of the 60s and 70s?

There was no established road network or significant buildings, and transportation was different when I first arrived. It was difficult for me to imagine at that time that I would live to witness Dubai's transformation into a stunning metropolis with the tallest skyscraper in the world, the largest mall, artificial islands like the Palm, and everything else.

The sole constant has been the benevolent people, their way of life, culture, and legacy. I am still in touch with Emirati and foreign contacts from more than 40 years ago.

(Disclaimer: The writer's trip was sponsored by Dubai's Department of Economy and Tourism.)