Looking for a summer beauty fix?

The transition to summer isn’t easy on your skin and with the bombardment of information about serums, it is tempting to pick the one that appeals to your senses. But even a small peek into the serum market is enough to overwhelm you. The choices, the colours, the packaging, the ingredients not to mention the wildly varying prices!

Packed in miniature glass bottles, facial serums are lightweight formulations induced with high concentrations of active ingredients (like vitamins, hyaluronic acid, retinol, and so on). Essentially, serums are used to target specific skin problems and are applied after a toner. Unlike a cream, serums contain fewer thickeners making them more fluid-like, thus enabling easy absorption. From celebrities like Deepika Padukone and Alia Bhatt to skincare and beauty influencers like Rinkal Parekh and Renee Chow, everybody credits their good skin to an effective serum. But if you’re new to skincare regimes, then head to your dermatologist to understand what suits you best. “These are active ingredients and they have to be used only after a dermatologist examines your skin, analyses and prescribes a serum. It's best to consult one before you purchase serums”, explains Dr Rashmi Shetty, dermatologist and skincare entrepreneur.

Find your routine

Skincare is all about personalisation and exclusivity. A tailor-made routine gives your skin the consistency it needs. We asked Dr Aanchal Panth, dermatologist and skincare influencer, how to handpick serums. She suggests a three-step guide.

“Understand the skin type first: dry, oily, acne prone, oily-sensitive, dry-sensitive, normal, or combination. Then, figure out the top two skin concerns that you want to correct. These could range from dark spots to tanning, uneven skin tone, active acne and fine lines. Next, you have to understand the function of each serum and then choose the one for your particular concern.” Dr Aanchal warns about excess use. “Higher concentration does not lead to better results; it can cause irritation and make matters worse."

Understanding the purpose of serums before incorporating them into your routine is a crucial element. Dr Aanchal gave us a list of popular serums and their specific functions.

● Dullness and uneven skin tone: Vitamin C or niacinamide with hyaluronic acid

● Dark spots: Kojic acid or alpha arbutin

● Active acne: Salicylic acid, niacinamide, retinol

● Dry skin: Ceramides, hyaluronic acid, glycerine

● Oily skin: Salicylic acid, glycolic acid, mandelic acid

● Open pores: Niacinamide, retinol

● Fine lines: Retinols, peptides.

More is not merrier

Layering skincare is a tedious and time-consuming process. You’ll have to understand how each ingredient reacts when it comes in contact with another formula. Too much chemistry? There’s more! According to Dr Rashmi, “You don't want many serums interacting with each other. Even if they don't interact, one might dilute the work of the other and nothing works completely”. Since skin care is followed by makeup, numerous serum layers can result in a greasy base before you even begin your makeup. In a country like India where the humidity and pollution are high, more is not merrier.

A quick fix to avoid layering numerous products is multiutility serums: A single serum infused with multiple ingredients to save you time and money and prevent your skin from getting clogged. “It is perfectly alright to use multiutility serums as they are put together by an expert after taking inputs from dermatologists, chemistry experts, and product engineers. Hence, they know how each of them will work and in what format. But in this case, I would urge you to opt for a company that is credible and takes their claim seriously,” said Dr Rashmi. Versatile serums need to be formulated precisely and therefore picking a trustworthy brand is an important aspect.

The downside?

Serums come with their own set of cons. They are neither pocket-friendly nor travel-friendly. They cannot be thrown into your handbag like creams and moisturisers and need to be carried with care. Besides, some serums also tend to oxidise if they are not resealed carefully. And when it comes to serums, patience is key. “The results depend on the ingredients used. As a general rule, give it 4-6 weeks,” says Dr Aanchal. 

The new-age skin soldiers

If you thought probiotics were big only in gut health, think again. Their positive action in strengthening our skin microbiome is now being championed by skin care majors. Little surprise then that these versatile warriors are making their way into skincare products with a vengeance. 

The concept of probiotics dates back to 1900 when Louis Pasteur discovered them as a source of fermentation in foods like yoghurt. Cut to 2024. Several small but promising studies suggest that probiotics can help battle skin ageing and act as anti-acne agents. According to research, when applied topically, probiotics are known to promote collagen production and boost skin strength and elasticity making it more resistant to sun damage. Further, the properties of lactic acid are believed to aid in reducing wrinkles and pores. 

Admittedly, our skin is a crowded place. It carries its own ecosystem of healthy bacteria and is also subject to the effects of free radicals, pollution, and nasty bacterial and fungal attacks. “Probiotics are good bacteria that help to restore the function of the gut by eradicating excess bad bacteria. In skincare, these are products containing live cultures of good bacteria to support the skin microbiome and keep the skin healthy. Since studies are still in progress, it is tough to mark the specific efficacy, but I recommend it as a skincare ingredient in addition to conventional and proven ingredients like ceramides,” says Dr Madhuri Agarwal, aesthetic dermatologist and founder of a well-known skin clinic in Mumbai.

With serums, facewash, lotions and creams already fighting for your attention, ensure that you choose probiotic-enriched skin care products with care; if the product begins to irritate the skin, it may lead to further bacterial growth, thus causing more harm than good.

"Probiotics provide skin barrier support as the natural barrier undergoes wear and tear due to the onslaught of free radicals. The benefits they provide are mainly due to the live (good) bacteria culture in them. However, they have not (yet) made any great dent when it comes to complexion-related skin problems. Be mindful that these are live cultures of bacteria so will have a short shelf life and will require appropriate storage in terms of refrigeration," she adds.

Another issue is if the products carry preservatives, there is no way of identifying if the probiotics are live, or not. “Probiotic skincare holds promise but more research is needed. Currently, studies on probiotics are primarily focussing on the gut. Future research about their effect on the skin will provide a clearer picture," says Dr Agarwal.

When buying probiotic skincare products, remember to: 

* Check the expiry date as probiotic products have a shorter shelf life. 

* Store in a cool, dry place to maintain efficacy and longevity.

* Use spatulas or pump dispensing bottles instead of dipping fingers.

* Use leave-on products like moisturisers rather than cleansers to get better benefits.