Skin-deep risks

Walk into a neighbourhood salon today, and the experience can feel strikingly different from just a few years ago. Alongside haircuts and facials, menus now feature chemical peels, IV drips, and even Botox-like treatments, often described in clinical language that mirrors a dermatologist’s clinic. This curious shift reflects a growing demand for quick, accessible beauty solutions, but it also raises critical questions about safety, regulation, and accountability.

As the boundaries between grooming and medical care blur, customers are increasingly navigating a space where expertise is not always clearly defined. Social media trends, aggressive marketing, and the promise of instant results have accelerated this transformation, making advanced cosmetic procedures more visible and seemingly routine. But behind the glossy advertisements lies a more complex reality, one that dermatologists say is leading to rising cases of complications and misuse.

Chasing one-stop solutions

On a busy Bengaluru street, Tarana (name changed) walks into a salon for a routine facial. Minutes later, she is advised to opt for a medical-grade chemical peel for pigmentation and a scalp infusion marketed as “hair Botox”. The setting itself remains unchanged — mirrors lined with lights, the hum of hairdryers, and music in the background — but the menu has evolved. What was once limited to haircuts, colouring, and basic grooming now reads like a clinical brochure, promising “brighter skin” and “anti-ageing therapies”.

For many customers, this shift is welcome — a one-stop solution for all hair and skincare needs. But beyond the glossy surface, this transformation is blurring the line between grooming and medicine, between a doctor and a beautician. This raises questions about training, oversight, and how far a salon can go before it begins to operate like a clinic.

When nearly 15 salons across the city were contacted for appointments, more than 10 were offering treatments that clinics or medical professionals should ideally perform.
When asked whether in-house medical professionals or beauticians would conduct these procedures, many confirmed that beauticians would carry them out. Two said a dermatologist would provide a prescription, but the procedure itself would be performed by staff.

Explaining the growing preference for salons over clinics, Dr Suman S, a qualified dermatologist, said, “The wide availability of training opportunities for laypersons to perform cosmetic procedures has led to the uncontrolled growth of salons, which now outnumber clinics.”

Signboards promising results “in just one session” or “overnight” are common across more than half of these establishments. Highlighting this trend, Dr Suman added, “Fancy advertisements, easy access to self-proclaimed cosmetologists, and the promise of high returns are strong motivators for beauticians.”

Recalling her experience treating patients after salon procedures, she said, “Beauticians often convince clients that these treatments will make their skin glow. People with acne are given false hope that it will disappear. Patients come to me with side effects. One patient developed burns after undergoing bleaching, a facial, and chemical peels. Such incidents are recurring.”

The danger of chemical peels

Chemical peels are among the most popular treatments today, driven largely by social media trends. Some skincare brands have even introduced at-home peel kits.
However, doctors warn that salons offering these treatments often lack adequate safety protocols and knowledge.

Explaining the procedure, Dr Shireen Furtado, Senior Consultant in Medical and Cosmetic Dermatology at a private hospital, said, “Chemical peels are acidic solutions used in controlled proportions to exfoliate the top layer of the skin. They must be used in mild concentrations to avoid damaging the skin barrier.” They are commonly used to treat acne marks, active acne, pigmentation, and sun damage. “Peels remove the damaged outer layer, promote cell turnover, and can give a glow. While the process itself is not complex, it requires an understanding of the patient’s skin type,” she said.

Using peels on dry or sensitive skin without consultation can be harmful. A major concern is the lack of pre- and post-care guidance.

“When peels are not performed by professionals, patients are not informed about aftercare. For instance, avoiding sun exposure is critical, but many are unaware, leading to further pigmentation,” Dr Shireen explained. She also warned against combining peels with other active ingredients or acids. “For pigmentation, stronger peels are sometimes used, but they can lead to rebound post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, making the skin appear drier and more weathered,” she added.

Botox: Celebrity-endorsed

Botox remains one of the most popular aesthetic treatments, fuelled by celebrity influence and the desire to achieve a similar appearance. However, its presence in salon menus is alarming. Dr Ruby Sachdev, Consultant Aesthetic Physician, warned that the risks go beyond poor cosmetic results.

“Incorrect placement and dosing are the most common issues when Botox is administered by untrained individuals. Injecting too close to certain muscles can cause eyelid drooping or an uneven smile,” she said. She also raised concerns about hygiene and product handling. “Improper storage or dilution affects both safety and effectiveness. Recognising complications early requires medical judgement: it’s not just about skill, but also safety standards,” she added.

A newer term seen in salon brochures is “hair Botox”. Responding to this, Dr Ruby clarified, “It’s purely a marketing term. There is no medical treatment where Botox is used for hair in this way.”

“What salons call hair Botox is usually a deep conditioning treatment with proteins, amino acids, and smoothing agents. It temporarily improves hair texture but does not involve injections or affect hair growth or scalp biology. The name is misleading,” she said.

Allergic reactions

Even basic procedures like facial hair removal are now leading to complications. From burns caused by waxing to allergic reactions from hair removal creams, dermatologists report an increasing number of cases.

Dr Priyanka Kuri, Consultant Dermatologist, said, “Laser treatments are the most effective option for long-term hair removal. For light facial hair, single-blade razors are safe and effective.” She also addressed a common myth: “Razors do not increase hair thickness. They can also remove superficial dead skin, helping reduce tanning.” She strongly advised against waxing. “Hot wax can burn the skin, damage the barrier, increase ingrown hair, and cause irritation,” she said.

IV infusions

The use of intravenous infusions containing glutathione and vitamins for skin brightening has also surged. Sessions can cost anywhere between ₹5,000 and ₹20,000. However, doctors caution that there is insufficient evidence to support these claims. High doses can lead to side effects such as nausea, skin rashes, and potential kidney or liver damage.

“Many of these drips contain Vitamin B12, Vitamin C, and glutathione. Patients taking them frequently risk fluid overload. Excess antioxidants, especially glutathione, can cause liver toxicity,” said Dr Priyanka. She stressed that such treatments should only be administered by qualified medical professionals after proper evaluation.

“Blood tests are essential before prescribing any vitamin therapy. These should be based on actual deficiencies,” she added. While patients may feel more energetic after such treatments, she clarified that claims of skin brightening are not scientifically proven.