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Sustainability: No concessions for fashion

The use of natural fibres and slow fashion can facilitate the fashion industry's sustainability agenda
Last Updated 15 June 2022, 13:40 IST

Today, sustainability is no longer just a buzzword. Instead, it is an intrinsic part of doing business. Consumers, investors, lenders, potential employees and stakeholders peruse a company’s sustainability credentials before deciding whether to engage with it.

Nonetheless, the spotlight on sustainability remains disproportionately trained on specific industries.

In popular perception, some businesses are considered more polluting than others. However, supposedly "cleaner" businesses like fashion often harbour a "camouflaged" carbon footprint, which is just as harmful.

The impact of fast fashion

The fashion industry in general and fast fashion in particular, has been shown to have a detrimental environmental impact. The use of cheaper, synthetic, petroleum-based materials, the scale of manufacturing, the manufacturing practices, logistics and the non-biodegradable waste generated all take a significant toll on our planet.

The phrase "fast fashion" was coined sometime in the 1990s. It refers to the swift manufacturing practices used in producing garments sold at relatively inexpensive rates. Since the emphasis is on speedy production, the garments move swiftly from catwalks to brand outlets, reaching consumers quickly.

Nevertheless, when a new fashion trend emerges months or a year down the line, the garments are abandoned. Ironically, though not meant to last long given their high synthetic ratio, the garments decay extremely slowly in landfills.

Conversely, slow fashion creates timeless garments that may not pander to so-called modern trends. Slow fashion uses natural materials produced sustainably and ethically, ensuring they are long-lasting. The imprint of these biodegradable materials is minimal on the environment.

Natural fibres such as silk, cotton and jute are indefinitely renewable and can be grown again year after year. For example, cotton fabric is valued for recycling because of its hydrophilic, moisture absorbent nature.

Although the production process for natural fabrics could be slow, these garments offset this disadvantage due to their long life and benign environmental footprint. Slow fashion has evolved more inclusively, unlike fast fashion.

According to a recent research report by consulting firm Accenture, more than 150 billion garments are manufactured globally annually. The report noted that before reaching consumers, the clothes pass through multiple hands such as growers, processors, mills and finished goods manufacturers and distributors, warehouses and retail outlets. The garments are purchased, worn, washed, repaired and donated, with most ending as landfill waste.

Another paper curated by the research database ScienceDirect revealed that in 2018 alone, the industry was responsible for around 2.1 billion metric tons of greenhouse gas emissions, which accounted for about 4 per cent of the global total.

The fashion industry’s adverse impact on the environment is due to gaps in accountability along extensive supply chains.

'Fast fashion' ends up in landfills and secondhand markets. Credit: iStock Photo
'Fast fashion' ends up in landfills and secondhand markets. Credit: iStock Photo

Technology to the rescue

Fortunately, technology provides relevant solutions and has been an enabler for the ecosystem. Digitalising a complete supply chain can help fashion brands introduce traceability, accountability and transparency into the entire manufacturing process.

It also helps companies source sustainably, eliminating quick-to-produce, middle-men and polluting petroleum-based fabrics. Digitalisation is beneficial because it helps brands better align their inventories with demand. Additionally, it enables them to reduce or, in some cases, even reuse waste.

Furthermore, the digitalisation of supply chains enables brands to hold contractors accountable. In a nutshell, the digitalisation of supply chains will minimise the fashion industry’s impact on the environment while safeguarding the rights of workers and allied stakeholders.

A 2020 McKinsey report estimates that the fashion fraternity needs to slash its overall CO2 emissions by 48 per cent to below 1.1 billion metric tons by 2030. Today, we are at a stage where we have to source responsibly. Sustainability will remain the dominant theme and define the next few decades for the fashion and textile industry.

(Mayank Tiwari is the founder & CEO of ReshaMandi)

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(Published 15 June 2022, 13:07 IST)

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