Whispering pines and lazy wanderings in Shimla

Come summer, and Shimla turns into a beau monde concourse of sorts attracting visitors to its verdant hills and cool weather

The stunning views offered from the airbnb cottage we stayed in. Credit: Rupali Dean

What sunrise from our cottage looks like. Credit: Rupali Dean

The dining room of the airbnb cottage in Chhotta Shimla. Credit: Rupali Dean

One of the rooms in the cottage offers a spectacular panoramic view of the surroundings. Credit: Rupali Dean

We were offered a freshly prepared, humble lunch during our stay. Credit: Rupali Dean

Shimla is infamous for a dearth of well-appointed budget hotels, especially in summer, so I decided on a moderately-priced Airbnb for our family vacation. Located in Chotta Shimla on Strawberry Hill at Aira Holme, roughly a 30-minute drive from the Lift that goes up to the mall, it's far from the madding crowd. In mid-April, the weather is perfect, neither hot nor too cold. We have come to sample summer in the hills.

Living the slow life

My home for the next five days is elegant and suits the needs of a modern traveller while keeping its vintage charm intact with several family portraits adorning the walls.

I am in touch with the owner's daughter Harjyoti on WhatsApp; she lives in Delhi and runs the place for her mother Paramjit. Harjyoti helps me make my stay comfortable.

It is perfect indoors, and I relish the views from the panoramic windows all around. I settle into a couch with a book and a cup of tea, basking in the sunlight filtering through the glass windows.

Of views and walks

Every morning we wake up to breathtaking views of the mountains or take in the beauty as we set out on long, unhurried walks through the hills. Every word is inadequate for this stunning landscape.

One of these days, as we start to walk uphill towards the sealed road leading to the mall, my daughter wants me to photograph her with a dog she's made friends with.

The sight of an old shop selling hot jalebis makes the trek worth it for me; as I stand near the shop and ask the keeper if I can buy half a kilo if he makes them fresh. Within five minutes, he is already explaining the recipe he uses for the jalebis. I can decipher "Maida" and "Cheeni" in his thick Pahari accent, but that's about it. As I continue to walk, the roofs of the houses gleam red and green. The town seems lively and vibrant.

There is a lot one can do here: horse-riding and mountain biking; in winter, there are skiing options at Kufri. Besides discovering the mountains on an exploratory hiking trail, you could walk around the mall road to shop, eat ice cream from Embassy, or stop by at the famed Combermere Hotel for a coffee.

The charms of slow food

The best part about our Airbnb is Nimma, the house help, who at an extra charge of Rs 300, helps me with buying groceries, cooking food and cleaning. And she knows all about home cooking and the importance of fresh and organic produce. As I relish my lentils, the bean salad, and the home churned yoghurt, I listen attentively to Nimma.

"We grew up eating my mother's delicacies cooked with fresh ingredients," she explains. "Everything is seasonal, and that's how most people in the village eat. Most veggies are grown in one's backyard and are plucked as and when required. It can't get fresher than that."

All the ingredients in the kitchen are locally sourced. I am so happy to be staying where the staff understands that kitchen techniques and know-how are all very useful, but the most important part of any meal is the quality of its ingredients—ingredients that are grown locally without harming the environment. The world is already a better place.

(Awarded the "Best food writer in the country" by the Indian culinary forum, WACS and the ministry of Tourism, Rupali Dean writes on food and travel.)

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