JOIN USThe battlefields of Suragiri Durga
Standing near the left door of a crowded coach on the passenger train from Bengaluru to Tumakuru, I was enjoying the countryside views. As the train was moving slowly near the Dabaspete railway station, I observed a hill very close to the railway tracks, with huge boulders resting precariously at its peak. My curiosity spurred me to travel to Dabaspete station the very next weekend.
From the platform, I took a shortcut through the fields, reached the town and then walked along the national highway running parallel to the railway lines till I spotted the signboard which read ‘Sri Siddeshwara Swamy Devalaya and Siddara Betta Gate (1.5km)’. At that location, there was an underpass below the railway lines, crossing which I came face to face with this magnificent hill.
The hill is popularly known as ‘Nijagal Betta’ among trekkers and travellers. This region and the hill have been addressed as ‘Suragiri Seeme’ and ‘Suragiri Durga’ respectively in the Epigraphia Carnatica and Reports on Archaeological Research in Mysore.
‘Akka-Thangi Kola’
I started moving along the boulders and climbed the huge rock face where steps were being newly cut. I entered through the south gate. Here I found the remnants of the fort and ‘Akka-Thangi Kola’, the largest pond on the hill. Climbing further up on the left side of the pond and venturing through the dense overgrowth of thorny bushes, I reached the Lakshmi Narasimha temple, which has another temple beside it.
The first temple has three outer sanctums, with a gopura still standing at the rear end. At the entrance to each sanctum, on either side are beautifully carvings of Jaya-Vijaya, the dvarapalakas (gatekeepers). The crumbling roof had fallen off in places and the rest was held up on precariously standing pillars.
The second temple attached to this has an empty inner sanctum which was probably once dedicated to Shakti Devi as it is guarded by dvarapalikas (female gatekeepers). From the outer sanctum of this temple, there is an entrance to the adjacent Lakshmi Narasimha temple.
An inscription mentions that in 1698, during the reign of Chikkadevaraja Wadiyar, the local ruler, Bilugale Dasarajayya, started building the present fort at Nijagal, which was called ‘Suragiri Durga’. Later, Dasarajayya installed an idol of the deity Lakshmi Narasimha at Suragiri Durga.
Between 1761 and 1792, many wars were fought at this fort between Hyder Ali, the Marathas and the British due to its strategic location.
The dargahs
To climb up to a higher level, I had to come back and circle the pond. I found a dargah at the edge of the pond. Climbing carefully to the next level, I reached a small Shiva temple inside a cave, which is frequented by the locals. Close to this is a second dargah, nestled in the small space between huge boulders.
Nearby is a tiny pond, ‘Siddara Done’ in the natural crevice of the rock. The water is used by people of all faiths visiting the temple and the dargah.
The ‘Report on Archaeological Research in Mysore during 1914-15’ states that “Nijagal is held sacred by both Hindus and Muhammadans, the places of worship on the top of the hill being in juxtaposition to each other.”
Further climbing brought me to the summit with a beautiful panoramic view of the entire hill and its surroundings. As I stood on a rock touching the sky, it was a heaven of calmness. Peace has descended on an ancient battlefield where many wars were once fought.
The trek rejuvenates one’s spirits and refreshes our senses before we head back to the hustle and bustle of our lives.